Today’s walk was like some kind of Himalayan fantasy. We passed through juniper and rhododendron forests, strode along trails cut out of ravine walls hundreds of feet above a river, crossed a bridge above a roaring waterfall, and passed through several traditional villages. The light was magnificent and we could hardly make any progress with all of the photo stops.
About halfway to Namche we started to meet groups of hikers out on day trips from Namche. After more than a week off the main trekking trails we were once again swept up in the tourist hordes.
I had a conversation with an English group that is here to participate in the Everest Marathon. It will be held on December 2nd, with the contestants running downhill from Gorak Shep (5200 m) to Namche (3450 m). There are about 40 foreign entrants and 20 from Nepal. I was told that in the 30+ year history of the marathon the Nepali runners have generally won, but this year the English have a ringer so they are hoping for an upset. Although I have run some marathons and was interested in the details of the event, it still seems like an odd thing to be doing in a national park in the Himalayas.
Arriving in Namche around midday, we spent most of the balance of the day eating, both at our hotel and at a bakery. We are all looking a bit drawn and emaciated. It doesn’t improve our appearance that no one has shaved in over two weeks.
Our appearance didn’t phase our hotelier, who welcomed us back and asked if we wanted the same room. He was interested in our experiences and recommended a brand of local beer for our celebratory drink. He is an excellent host and made us feel very much at home.
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