88 Temples on Shikoku: What Next?

The view from the ridge Gord climbed

Ruth: Yesterday Gord and I climbed from the seashore to the Temple 88 on the Shikoku pilgrimage. I cycled on the road while Gord took a trail that climbed much higher. Before the big climb we met at the Henro Museum where we were each given a henro ambassador certificate (the equivalent of a Compostela on the Camino) and a lovely pin. The museum has a good little display on the pilgrimage, but you have to know what and where it is to recognize it. On display were a few stamp books where the pages were entirely red from the countless stamps for multiple trips to each temple. The warm welcome at the museum more than made up for the somewhat gruff and impersonal reception at Temple 88. 

Unlike other pilgrimage routes this one is a circle, so we still have to close the loop by returning to Temple 1, located 45 kms from 88. We also have 12 more days before our flight home. Lots of time to see more of Japan or visit Koyasan.

Thinking about our extra time, Gord and I independently decided that we would simply like to continue and begin our second Henro. There is a beautiful rhythm to daily life on a pilgrimage and we are happy to continue as long as the June rains hold off. 

After all, life is Henro.

Gordon:  I enjoyed a suitably grand outing on the walk to the final two temples.  Against the advice of the woman at the Henro Museum, I chose to go to Temple 88 via the mountain behind it.  It was a magnificent, varied trail, with bamboo stands yielding to dense cedar forests before a scramble to the top.  The last stretch was a via ferrata, with metal handholds set in the rock.  

On the way up I saw another monkey and encountered a “sparrow bee”, as they are known in Japanese.  They have acquired this name due to their enormous size.  This is a wasp that hums rather than buzzes.  Ignoring the diseases carried by mosquitoes, the sparrow bee is also the deadliest animal in Japan, typically causing 30 to 40 deaths per year.  (Japanese pit vipers and brown bears round out the top three.)  I must admit I took a few apprehensive steps backwards when the sparrow bee showed some interest in me.

After getting lost twice, and walking around an active logging area, I did not complete the 35 km walk until after 5:00.  At dinner we enjoyed a celebratory beer with our Irish friend Geraldine.

Walking sticks left at Temple 88 by Henro completing the pilgrimage