We have walked 5 hours each of the past two days, mostly on trails on the opposite side of the valley from the road. We started in conifer forests, but now that we have dropped to 2000 metres, we are walking through bamboo and other subtropical plants. It is so nice to feel warm again.
Dhaulagiri, at over 8000 metres, has dominated the landscape for the past two days. It seems to rise directly behind the town of Larjung, where we stayed last night. When I stepped outside the hotel this morning I looked up, way up, to see first light illuminating the top 100 metres of this great pyramid of rock and ice. Magical.
We came across a couple of large, black yaks in a village this morning. One of them was standing in the sun and looked particularly striking. As I moved towards him for a photo the other one made a short charge towards me. I’d like to say I pulled out my red sweatshirt and yelled “toro”, but the truth is I almost loaded my pants. Matthew and I scuttled away, looking back over our shoulders. Sorry, no pictures.
The accommodation on this side of the pass has been noticeably more comfortable that what was on offer in the Marsyangdi valley. Spacious, ensuite rooms are available, some with solar showers that are actually warm. Last night, for the first time, we had a brazier full of charcoal placed under our dining table. The warmth in the otherwise unheated and chilly room was heavenly.
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