It is a magic moment checking into a guesthouse with a sitting toilet and an excellent restaurant serving everything from pizza to traditional minority dishes. We are spending two nights at Zuela guesthouse to rest our legs and explore the area before heading down the road tomorrow, leaving the tourists and bathroom thrones behind for a day or two. We are running into other people touring on bikes most days, and hope to meet up with a German couple for Christmas.
We did a side trip up the Nam Tha River, but the dust from passing vehicles and the rough road made it less magic than we had hoped. Still, lots of interesting things to see along the way.
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