Gaudi Wonderland

Wow! Words and pictures don't even come close to revealing the wonders of Gaudi's marks on Barcelona. We have slowly been making our rounds to see some his buildings and monuments around the city. Yesterday it was the Casa Batlló part mansion, part dragon and part pure whimsical joy.

Today we visited Park Güell a beautiful terraced public park sprinkled with many Gaudi treasures. It was designed as a private pleasure garden for the upper classes, but now can be enjoyed by all.
From there we wandered down the hill to La Sagrada Familia; Gaudi's unfinished masterwork.

Consecrated as a Basilica by the Pope just last month, La Sagrada Famillia is one of the most outstanding buildings anywhere in the world. It is still under construction and won't be completed for another 30 years but already it is unbelievable.
Gaudi was killed by a tram in 1926, but at least 400 workers are still on site working to complete his fantastic vision.

Location:Barcelona

Christmas in Barcelona

Matthew and Ruth

It's Christmas time in Barcelona! Most of our trip has been chasing the early signs of fall as we moved south, but by the time we made it to Marrakech summer had arrived again.Two days ago I was putting on sunscreen and listening to the call to prayer. Now we are surrounded by parka wearing Spaniards doing their Christmas shopping. I think the parkas are more of a fashion statement than a necessity - it is sunny with highs of 16 degrees!

Gord and I have colds but we are still getting out to explore. This morning we walked around the Barrio Gotti and this afternoon,  Matthew headed off to the Meseu de l'erotica while Gord and I went to the Picasso Museum. Each to our own artistic interests.
The huge nativity scene here has a unique Barcelona addition. Each year somewhere in the city's display lies a figure of a man taking a crap. I really don't understand the symbolism but it is unusual enough to merit a mention. The Christmas market follows up this theme by selling a wide variety of famous figures taking a crap, including Michael Jackson and local politicians. I am taking orders right now. How about a Thriller for your crèche.

Last night in Morocco

Our last day here has been pretty low key. Gord, unfortunately has food poisoning; I think it was the date that didn't taste right. He has been laying low with a pussy cat for most of the day. When I asked someone at the hotel what the cat's name was I was told quite clearly that, "the hotel has no cat." Well then who was that purring mess sleeping with us last night?

In the morning we visited the  lovely Bahia Palace. I spent the afternoon in the souks shopping. I would love to report that I have become a shark at bargaining, but I'm afraid that would just not be true. Our timing in the square was late today so we missed seeing John Malkovich - Oh well. We are still waiting and hoping Susan Sarandon will drop by.

Location:Rue Riad Zitoun el Kdim,Marrakesh,Morocco

Snake Charmers and Movie Stars

Hotel Sherazade, Marrakech

Marrakech is a city of contrasts where everything comes together. Even within Djemaa El Fna, the main square in the Medina, snake charmers and acrobats share space with VIPs here for the International Film Festival. Apparently Catherine Deneuve and Francis Ford Coppola are among some of the celebs in attendance.

We saw Susan Sarandon tonight at an outdoor screening of one of her films. The film was competing with drumming groups and the high pitched flutes of the snake charmers. In all the chaos Susan still flashed me a winner smile when I called out to her with shameless abandon,  that we loved her. We were only about ten feet away. I think we'll be great friends.

As we wind through the noisy and congested streets packed with shops and restaurants, doors become frontiers into other worlds. From the street you would never guess what magic lies within the grubby walls. We are staying in a Riad, one of these new worlds, where all the outside chaos is left behind. Instead we have court yards and terraces filled with plants and cozy corners in which to enjoy a cup of mint tea.

Mint tea is the common element of both worlds. We have enjoyed it within our Riad and also out of dingy cups on crowded sidewalks. No doubt mint tea is also being sipped by the movie stars at the Mamounia Hotel.

Location:Rue Mohamed el Qory,Essaouira,Morocco

Extreme Clean

Essaouira
An update on the Hammam healing:

Well my skin is starting to heal. All the sanded pores on my tummy have tiny scabs now- I think that's progress. My hands and fingernails are still quite orange from the henna but at least I'm getting used to it. It is unfortunate it's a shade of orange that clashes with the rest of my skin. My big toes are the only real problem. It's too bad that in her efforts to try to sand off my callouses she missed by about half a centimeter and left dents. I guess that's just the price I have to pay for beauty.

Location:Rue Mohamed el Qory,Essaouira,Morocco

An afternoon at the Hammam

Hotel Riad Nakhla, Essaouira
I am glowing. This afternoon I arranged to meet a local woman for a traditional hammam. Our first stop was at the spice market where she bought cloves, henna, a lemon and other mysterious ingredients. Then we wove through the medina until we reached the Pabst Hammam. A plaque at the entrance announced that Orson Wells frequented this Hammam while he was in Essaouira filming Othello. In spite of that particularly famous visitor, it is a local hammam and I was the only tourist there.
After stripping down to our underwear we entered a steamy warm room through what looked like a massive dungeon door, about six inches thick. There Halbia fetched buckets of water and motioned for me to sit down. The room was full of women and girls in various stages of scrubbing. Many of the older women were working vigorously on their children while they let their own green goop facials do their magic.

The process began with something that looked like petroleum jelly but smelled much nicer. After I was completely coated she went to work, somewhat unsuccessfully, on the calluses on my big toes. The next step was the gommage or exfoliation which she did with an intensity that was bordering on scary. Although the idea is to remove all the dead skin, I think a lot of the living stuff was also successfully liberated.

After so much of my DNA was rinsed down the drain I was coated in a new oily concoction of cloves and other spices. This was for the massage stage which involved almost no pain and a great deal of pleasure.

After the massage I was rinsed again while Halbia started mixing up henna, water and the lemon. This mixture was then applied to all my skin and allowed to steep for a while while she worked more of it into my palms and the soles of my feet. Let me just say that fresh lemon juice on my chaffed tummy was quite an experience. Halbia giggled when the rinsing revealed my new orange palms; not quite the red/brown tones the Moroccan women get.

Finally we made it to the washing stage where I was soaped up only to see, to my horror, the return of the abrasive mitt. Fortunately covered in soap it was not too scary a weapon.

With my hair shampooed and my skin gleaming I headed out into the warm evening feeling cleaner than I have ever been. I would do it all again if I only had more skin.

Location:Rue Mohamed el Qory,Essaouira,Morocco

Castles Made of Sand

Hotel Riad Nakhla, Essaouira
"Castles made of sand slip into the sea eventually."

The locals here will point out a sand covered Kasbah at the end of the beach that they claim inspired Jimi Hendrix to write the song. In reality he released the song before he ever came to Morocco. Unlike the local folklore which makes you assume he practically made Essaouria his home in the late sixties. In reality he might have stayed here for about three days; the same length of time I'm staying. I wonder what myths will developed around my visit.

Location:Essaouria, Morocco

Suerta Loca

Hotel Suerte Loca, Sidi Ifni
We came out of the mountains and down to the coastal town of Sidi Ifni, which has only been a part of Morocco since 1969. Prior to that, it was a Spanish enclave. Much of the town was constructed in the 30's and as a result it is full of art deco buildings and a Spanish vibe.

Just like the name of our hotel suggests, we are having suerta loca or crazy luck with the weather now. After all it is December and we need sunscreen! We spent the the morning walking five kilometers down the beach to the port and encountered only a few other people. Most of the foreign tourists in this town are European snow birds staying close to their motorhomes. Otherwise there are just a handful of surfers here to catch the excellent curls.

In the afternoon we put on our swim suits and played in the waves. The Atlantic here is cool but still warmer than the Pacific at home in the summer. Gord and Matthew were maniacs in the waves. We were the only three people swimming so we had very personal attention from the two life guards on the beach. They were quick to point out that we had chosen the most dangerous area to swim. We decided to take there advice and moved down further thus averting certain death. It was a great day.

Location:Sidi Ifni

The Ameln Valley in the Anti Atlas Mountains

Hotel Salama, Tafraout

The sun returned today and we had a terrific hike through the Ameln valley. Our first stop was in a village where you could visit a traditional house that is now a museum. After a tour and tea our host insisted he dress me up as a Berber woman. Eventually Gord and Matthew joined in on the fun.

An evening by the fire in my slippers

Hotel Salama, Tafraout
It can rain here too and it certainly is right now. The country side around here is mostly bare granite, so when it rains heavily it comes streaming down the mountains. Dry stream beds and roads turn into gushing rivers in minutes. We are on day four of some really rainy weather but fortunately there are periods each day when we can get out for a walk. I really can't complain, we have been chasing the good weather with great success for more than three months.

Not only is Tafraout known for it's mountain trekking and beautiful rock formations, but it is also home to a number of babouche makers. Whether you consider them slippers or shoes they are ubiquitous around here. The local variety are more sturdy than the whimsical fairy slippers you see in some of the souks. This morning we headed out for some good babouche shopping. Matthew bought a pair for Gord as a Christmas present. Once I tried them on I needed a pair as well. We went with the local traditions of yellow for boys and red for girls. Now as I sit in front of the fire in our hotel I am cosy from the top of my head right down to the tip of my toes.

Location:Tafraout, Morocco

Public Transport Part Two

On Route between Tarudant and Tafraout

Ok forget everything I said before. I spoke too soon. Right now I want to be traveling in one of those land rovers. I HATE BUSES! We got up at 5:30 to catch a early bus only to sit on it for two hours with no sign of it ever departing. At 8:30 I was going to go postal. People on the bus were starting to get off for washroom breaks from a ride that so far hadn't gone anywhere! Finally I convinced Gord and Matthew to bail with me, we were able to even recover our money.

Now we are settled into a grand taxi that will take us all the way to Tafraout. For this service we are paying a small fortune, but this way no one gets hurt.

Location:Taffellagth,Taroudant,Morocco

Public Transport

Taroudent
When we head off in the mornings on our travel days we never know exactly how it will work out. Buses, especially the modern comfortable ones leave early in the morning and are often full. Most trips involve an assortment of grand taxis, mini buses and larger coaches. Whatever the combination a distance of 300km will take a good chunk of the day.

Although travel days are usually tiring, they are also a fun way to really be with Moroccans(sometimes much closer than you expect). In the week around Aid things were really busy. I quickly discovered that good orderly Canadian queuing is non existent here. Also, buying a ticket for a 5 hour coach ride doesn't mean there will be available seats until you pay the suspect " baggage fee" and they turf others off the bus. On one ride I ended up sitting much further up in the bus than Matthew and Gord. I was quickly adopted by the surrounding woman who shared their food with me and made sure I was sitting with one of them as passengers shifted throughout the ride. In return, I shared my lap for their sleeping toddlers because we all know a toddler who sleeps is a marvelous thing on a long journey.

Today our journey so far has involved two grand taxi rides because the morning bus to Taroudent was already full. We splurged and bought the whole backseat of the Mercedes. I am not willing to spend three hours with four or five crammed in. It has been a beautiful drive along the foot hills of the Atlas. We are making much better progress than the buses which stop for tea and passengers all the way along. The current taxis' odometer reads 817,430km - impressive.

Now we are waiting in a town called Taliouine, a town the book warns is sometimes hard to get out of. Once installed in our third grand taxi of the day we pull out of another back water town; indistinguishable from many others whether you are in India, Cuba, Turkey or Guatemala. The one thing that the bus stations or taxi stands in all of these towns share, however, is some of the best people watching around! In spite of the time and some of the discomfort I think the majority of foreigners who wiz by in Land Rovers might be missing a big part of Morocco.

Location:On the Road

Ait Ben Haddou

La Rose de Sable, Ait Ben Haddou

Now we know where all the tourists are, we certainly haven't seen many anywhere else. They do however, have good reason to come here. It is considered the prettiest and most heavily ornamented of the Ksour and UNESCO agrees. While it is stunning, we prefer the more authentic Berber Ksour in other areas.

Tea with carpets

We were not going to buy carpets. "No really, it's too early on the trip and they are too heavy to carry," I said as I slipped a wad of bills into my purse; well you never know. Ok so it turns out we are push-overs. Going to have tea, "and just for looking at carpets", is harder than you think. Especially when the gentleman and his sister are lovely and welcoming and show you eye poppingly beautiful carpets.

Carpet shopping is a long drawn out process. We started with a tour of their mud brick kasbah that is over one hundred years old. Then we were shown the looms and wools died with natural ingredients like henna, saffron, pomegranate, mint and indigo. Next came the explanation of all the Berber symbols. We are then invited into their main room and tea was prepared and poured. By this time we are no longer customer and seller, but friends. Mahjoub and his sister gradually begin to unfurl a number of beautiful carpets. About twenty minutes into it we know we are hooked. In Berber culture negotiating prices comes last and after the item has been chosen. For this delicate conversation another pot of tea is brewed and the quality of the carpets discussed further. In our case, his first price seemed so reasonable that we just went through the motions to carve a bit off of the price. Gord and I bought one for ourselves and Matthew got his as an early Christmas present. After the two carpets were sewn up into packages Mahjoub, gave Matthew another small carpet, because he was just so gosh darn cute (or because we paid such a high price). In the end, however, all parties were very happy with the exchange and it was a lovely way to spend the afternoon.

Location:Todra Gorge

Tea with the Nomads

We have been having a lovely stay In Todra Gorge. The hiking here is great and varied. Yesterday Gord and I hiked down through the lush palmeries of the Gorge to Tinerhir. It took us 3.5 hours zigzagging through the oasis between the steep cliff walls and mud villages. It was the first time in months I could walk that distance without difficulty.

Today Matthew, Gord and I climbed up about 2000 feet through the desolate rocky mountains above the gorge. On our way down we encountered a camp of a nomadic Berber family. We had met their goats earlier on the trail. The mother unfurled blankets and invited us to join her for some tea, dates and camp fire bread. All of this was done without any common language. She gracefully accepted my fleece and a bit of money for the lunch and then through gestures she invited us to stay the night. We declined, but it was a very special experience spending some time with her. After lunch we made our slow decent back to the lush gorge floor; such a great contrast to the barren mountains. We were walking for almost five hours and for the first time in a long time I felt strong.

Location:Todra Gorge

Todra Gorge

Dar Ayour, 13km from Tinghir

Ok so maybe all those yummy salads at the street vendors were not a good idea. The Rough Guide for Morocco warns that everyone at some point gets sick and it has always been a trusted reference. Gord was first out of the gate and now Matthew and I are staying very close to washroom facilities. We couldn't have picked a nicer place to relax and get over something. Our room is beautiful with our own verandah/tea lounge over looking the river and cliffs. This place is a lush oasis after the Sahara.

Gord is in his element with the hiking around here. Today he headed up the Gorge twenty kilometers to the next town and then caught a cab back. He was number nine in a standard Mercedes station wagon and had to be let out before our village, presumably so that the authorities didn't see how overloaded the vehicle was.

Location:Todra Gorge

Full Moon in The Desert

When you come to Morocco you have to spend at least one night in the desert. Camel treks are touristy, but they are popular for good reason. The dunes here range in color from golden orange to pink and near sunset the views are out of this world. We can see a ridge of cliffs just across the Algerian border from here.

Up close, camels are really odd animals. Their knees and ankles bend in the opposite direction as ours and their heads swivel about like an ostrich. After getting too friendly with one of them he barred his teeth and startled me so much that I fell backwards into the sand.

Our camp was an hour and a half camel ride away and we made it there by sunset. Our guide Omar served us tea and then started to prepare dinner by the light of one candle and his cell phone. It was one of the best tangines we have had in Morocco. We were joined by two very friendly desert cats who were equally impressed by the tangine. We have now witnessed first hand how cats chose to domesticate themselves by moving closer into inhabited camps. After a good night sleep in the moonlit desert, we woke up at dawn to watch the sunrise before mounting our camels and heading back to the hotel. We will spend one more night here and then head back into the mountains.

Location:Erg Chebbi

Into the Kasbahs

We caught a ride with Melissa, an American woman we met in Fes who was picking up a rental car and heading in our direction. It was a great day and much more fun than a 5 hour bus ride.
After stopping in Azrou for a quick lunch we drove up into the Cedar forests in search of the Barbary monkeys. Melissa had some information on where they could be spotted so we parked the car and strolled among the huge Cedars with our eyes peeled. Here we thought we were on a wilderness quest and just 200m up the road was a parking lot surrounded by tourist stands and lots of well fed monkeys. As touristy as it was the macaques were beautiful. They were tame enough that we could get up really close to watch their communal grooming sessions.

We are now well into the Middle Atlas and are beginning to see mud houses and Kasbahs. The light at sunset and sunrise is just fantastic.
We have many friends here. Two men both named Rashid attached themselves to us for a while. Rashid number 1 joined us on our walk and led us through the old Jewish Kasbah in town. It is still inhabited but the last Jew died five years ago. The mud and straw construction can become a deadly situation when heavy rain storms periodically collapse the buildings. Apparently last year 20 people died when several homes collapsed. The king donated money to rebuild the Kasbah, but I think I would be looking for a concrete or brick alternative .

You can't imagine our surprise to discover that both Rachids had carpet shops and were very eager to offer us a Berber welcome and mint tea there. I am afraid we were a disappointment on that front.

Location:Midelt, Morocco

Time with the Women

November 16, 2010
I want to spend time with Moroccan woman, but not as myself. Undercover, perhaps I could gain some sense of what life is like for woman here. The only way in for me right now is through books. I am reading, Dreams of Trespass, by Fatima Mernissi. Born in 1940, the book is Fatima's story of growing up in a Harem in Fes. I am just into the first third of the book, but already the multi-generation discussions of boundaries and liberation are fascinating.

After lunch Gord and Matthew went out to walk the city walls and I went to the local hammam.
In Turkey I went to a hammam, but it was in a tourist town and I was the only customer. This was completely different. It was a full of women of all ages shapes and sizes. No French or English was spoken but hand gestures made it easy to figure out what to do. It's interesting that although in public spaces women are extremely well covered and modest in the hammam, everyone is either naked or in underwear. I can waltz around in public in a tank top and shorts, but put me in a crowded hammam with a woman polishing my skin until it glows and I am the shy one. Interesting.

I don't think a woman born in Canada who visits Morocco as a tourist can make any claims of understanding the complex gender relations here but I will continue to visit hamams and read my book so that at least I get some clues.

Location:Fes, Morocco

Meat

I eat meat, so why am I squeamish about Aid and the sacrificing of sheep all over Fes today. It was one thing to get used to walking to our hotel through the meat souk where camel and sheep heads hang on hooks to indicated both the type of meat sold at a particular shop, and it's freshness. Matthew and I both had to try to banish those images from are minds before we could dig into our kebab dinners.
Now this morning we have been listening to the last bleats of hundreds of sheep as they are individually slaughtered with their heads turned to Mecca. Singing horse riders crash through the narrow lanes some already proudly wearing white robes drenched in blood.

One sheep on our neighboring rooftop became quite quiet after fewer and fewer of his bleats were answered. Oh dear, I am back on the roof and he is very dead now. Families are gathered on all the surrounding roofs taking photos and preparing for their feast. The sky is smokey as fires are lit to roast the meat.

For Moroccans today is a celebration, and everyone, even the poor, will eat meat tonight.
An important part of Aid is giving mutton to those who need it. Red meat is relatively expensive here and for some, they will only be able to eat Mutton twice a year.

I eat meat so why do I prefer my lamb to come from an industrial meat processing plant where they never see a pasture and live only a few months to then be wrapped in cellophane sent across the world for my inspection. No heads or eyes looking down at me to indicate how long that leg of lamb has been sitting in the supermarket. It certainly is less messy for me and easier to pretend it never came from a live creature. Call me old school but that is just how I prefer it.

Location:Fes, Morocco

Souks in Fes

Dar Bouãnania, Fes

After a grand taxi ride to Meknes, and a petite taxi ride to the train station, we boarded an over stuffed train to Fes. Everyone is heading home for Aid right now and each car was just jammed. We could barely wedge ourselves into our car and then to our horror we stopped at two more stations to collect a few more passengers. Fortunately it was a short ride and we made it to Fes before noon.

We are staying in a fantastic Dar right in the old Medina. My understanding of the difference between a Dar and a Riad is that a Dar has a small central room that is glassed in three stories above it, whereas a Riad has a larger open court yard. There are other differences of course like price and grandeur, but for $16 dollars each I am very happy with our Dar. Every surface is covered with decoration and color. We are planning to stay here for four nights so that we miss some of the travel chaos right around.

We went out for our first exploration of the Medina and it's fantastic. I was bracing myself for lots of touts and hassles but it was pretty relaxed. People, of course wanted to show us their shops, but they were quite gracious when we smiled and said no.


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Location:Fes, Morocco

Sheep in the House

It's not everyday you see someone pushing a couple of sheep into their house and up the stairs. If it wasn't just three days before Aid el Kabir I might have a few concerns. There are sheep everywhere right now. Hanging off donkeys, pushed into car trunks, and now it seems we have two on our Terrace.

If you can afford it, and you are Moroccan, now is the time to secure your own flossy for Aid.
Shopping for the right sheep is a national obsession at this time and it can be done in many different ways. Old world meets new now with Internet sheep sales on the rise. But the smart family who has put off the urge to replace the broken washing machine until now could score a sheep with the deal right before Aid.

Mohammed, our host assures us that the best place to purchase a sheep is in the local souk or market. Although currently our two terrace companions are being carefully fed and watched by Amet our host's youngest son, I fear it won't end well for them( the sheep that is.)

When we were not looking at sheep today we were touring the Roman Ruins of Volubilis. A remarkable site and well deserving of it's Unesco World Heritage designation.

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Location:Moulay Idriss

Up in the Sugar Cubes of Moulay Idriss

La Colombe Blanche, Moulay Idriss
I never made it to Santiago de Compostella but I have made it to Moulay Idriss. As I sit on our roof top terrace listening to the call to prayer, I feel a certain reverence for humanity and gratitude to be a part of it.
Moulay Idriss was founded by it's namesake, the most venerated Saint in Morocco and the great-grandson of the Prophet Mohammed. A pilgrimage here is worth one fifth of the hajj to Mecca.
The town is built on two hills and piled high with sugar cube houses. We are staying with a lovely family in one of the cubes on the top of the pile. From here I can see the Roman ruins of Volubilis in the distance. Is is stunningly beautiful here. Gordon and Matthew went for a 20km walk up over a ridge overlooking the town. I am content just relaxing here.

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Location:Moulay Idriss, Morocco

Meknes

Hôtel Maroc, Meknes

Now we feel like we are really in Morocco. Meknes is a laid back but otherworldly place. We are staying in a little hotel in the Medina. Our room has a window looking out over a little court yard full of orange trees. We visited the museum set in a fabulous Riad with a stunning harem on the second floor. Who new the oppression of women could be so beautiful. We thought it would be a great setting for Matthew to entertain his future wives( he insisted on the plural).

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Location:Meknes, Morocco

Casablanca

Casablanca, Hotel Guynemer




No this is not about a film shot entirely in a Hollywood studio, even though it was an excellent picture. And no we didn't go to Rick's bar even though there is one here now. I have however had the song, "As time goes by" going through my head since we arrived.

Our first day in Morocco was spent marveling at the new Hassan II Mosque and grieving about the state of some of the crumbling yet once exquisite Art Deco buildings. We had stunning light to view the Mosque by. The rain had just quit and was replaced by sun and fog- very atmospheric! The Mosque was finished in 1993 after just 6 years with 2500 workers and 10,000 craftsmen. It's a great combination of traditional craftsmanship and modern innovations like the ornately carved cedar ceiling that opens in good weather to cool the worshippers. It was spectacular!

The Deco heritage of this city is also outstanding, but badly in need of restoration, power washing and gallons of white paint. The details on so many of the buildings, including our hotel, recall an era when this city must have been a jewel. I think with some money and elbow grease it could certainly shine again.

Matthew and Gord are having a fabulous time encouraging each other to lower the bar to twelve year old humor standards whenever possible. Out of kindness to anyone reading this I won't provide any examples, (sorry Blair). We are having a great time together, although there are moments when I think I am suddenly back in a classroom with two goofs. Fortunately they do still transform back into their lovely selves who cook for me and do all the dishes.

Location:Casablanca, Morocco

Sipping Chocolate and Coffee in Madrid

If you love art and chocolate then Madrid is the city you want to visit. The combination of the two is perfect, because when you max out on the art you can recharge with a coffee or a steaming cup of thick chocolate.

We are really lucky with our timing in Madrid because the Prado has Renoir and Rubens exhibitions on right now. Both are outstanding and then of course there is all the other art in the permanent collection. I will never tire of seeing their Heronimous Bosch collection.

Last night we picked up our nephew Matthew at the airport and today we are taking him around to see some Madrid highlights including the flea market, Sol, Plaza Major and of course lots of art. He doesn't seem to be too jet lagged or else he's too polite to complain.

Location:Calle de Lavapiés,Madrid,Spain

Canned by Renfe

November 6, 2010

We took the night train to Madrid. We opted for the cheaper bed in a room of six. This means that six people are stacked three deep and two wide in a six foot by eight foot room. There is not enough room to sit up on any of the bunks. I was on the third level accessed by a scary ladder that angled into the room. Of course I had to go pea which involved wriggling down the ladder without falling on any of the others below. On my return I somehow got my self wedged in the wrong direction and didn't have enough room to lie down. After a logistical analysis I grabbed the pole and swung my head out enough so that I could clear the ceiling and lie back down. Amazingly, I slept well and was in fine shape this morning.

Now we are settled into our nice Madrid apartment and looking forward to seeing Matthew this evening.


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Location:Somewhere between Taragona and Madrid

Taragona

Hostal Forum, Taragona

Ok life is pretty grand here in Taragona. My back is feeling good I'm relaxing drinking Rioja wine after a swim in the ocean. It's not a complete surprise to come to a Spanish city I've never hear of, on the coast and find lovely beaches. We had not expected, however, to encounter a city full of Roman and Medieval ruins. The Roman sights are significant enough to warrant Unesco heritage status. Taragon was a important Roman Provincial town during the Punic Wars in second century B.C. But for those who don't care so much for ruins or beaches there are numerous cosy cafes where you can pass the time sipping rich, thick chocolate heaven.

Tonight we take the night train to Madrid. Tomorrow we meet up with our Nephew Matthew for the next chapter of our trip.



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Location:Taragona, Spain

A letter from our cat

Just received a heart-warming letter from our cat. Thought I would share it with everyone.






asedfjgksdjfgoiclepgmdflejrgojavlma;jkgjgoerlew[reofdgmfheirhuth...htuR iH oops, I mean Hi Ruth,
This whole typing thing is hard. Don's asleep at the key board so I thought I would take over, otherwise you will probably never get a response from the lazy sleeping bugger. Don't get me wrong, he treats me well, but there just seems to be something missing, where is the love I say. When are you and Gord coming home? I miss the communal bed, playing with Gord at 4:00 a.m., and having him get up in the middle of the night, just for me! Don, well he leaves the window open, although he locked me in on Halloween night, silly bugger... something about saving his testicles from the next canning season if he didn't - I really don't get his oblique references sometimes. I am getting very good at getting up that cat ladder though, on the weekend I impressed Don by leaping from the second step from the top, up to the start of the ladder, and then 3 more leaps up the ladder and in through the window without even touching the window ledge. As you can see from my picture above, there's nothing I like more on a sunny morning than just making myself comfortable on the window ledge while surveying the world.
Well so much for Obama-mania hey, I think if he just kept a presidential cat around his approval ratings would soar. What's with always picking a dog, it didn't help 'Tricky Dick' much, and frankly a dog just appeals to a bunch of white trash voters, they're voting Republican anyway. I say look to where you can capture new untapped voter appeal, the cat lovers, they're the ones not voting, bring them on board. It could even be a budget stimulus item, you know: let's make America rat free, get a cat. They could count cats as family dependants and offer up a family cat tax benefit; America could become the worlds leading cat food producer... jobs,jobs,jobs!
Speaking of getting rid of rats in politics, did you read that our man Gordo resigned. Yep, it's official he bid a tearful farewell at a press conference today, it was a bit of a surprise. He really did make people believe he was going to stay on and fight, even with a personal approval rating of 9%. I mean it was only a few days ago he announced to the province a 15% personal income tax cut, instituted a cabinet shuffle, and sacked Martyn Brown, I really think he was planning on staying on. His press conference seemed hastily organised, quite comical really, the door opened and he almost looked like he was pushed through the door out in front of the cameras, no aids around him, nothing, just stumbling a little toward the podium. His speech had the sound of reading the words with a gun to his head. Turns out there was a secret ballot on leadership review cast by members from across the province, they were going to release the results at the next convention which is in a couple of weeks, hmm do you think he was given a sneak preview of those results?

Hey I see you cats are now into Spain, and looking to sell or give away your bikes ... ya, I follow your blog. Maybe you can trade your bikes for a stay at one of those fancy B & Bs you are staying at. Hey you're not petting any of those foreign cats are you? Stay away from them, you hear, they're just slutty flea bags, carrying all sorts of vermin. Why I wouldn't be surprised if they don't carry bed bugs! Don't touch them you hear?!?

I've got to go now, Don's starting to drool on me, why doesn't he just go to bed?

Russell

P.S. When the spell checker checked the email it didn't recognise Obama, instead it suggested Osama, wonderful!




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Location:Figueres

Teatre-Museu Dali Figueres

Well last night we sold both bikes to the first woman I asked in Cadaques. Well, sold is an over statement, let's just say the purchasers were very happy with the deal. Our next stop was the post office where we mailed about seven kilos of bike gear maps and books to our apartment in Barcelona. That sounded good, let me say it again, our apartment in Barcelona. With a much better back and a much lighter pack we jumped on a bus to Figueres.

Now we are sitting outside Dali's theatre after about two hours of exploring it, recharging with an expresso before heading back in. It is a comprehensive exposure to his multiple faceted artistic vision. Speaking of facets.... No enough about my back!

I could make a comment about the weather, but that would be cruel. Let's just say it's a bit like Victoria in July.


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Location:Figueres, Spain

Dali's House

Cadaques
Salvador Dali lived the bulk of his adult life in a house on the sea just outside Cadaques. The house was originally a number of fishing huts which Dali and his wife Gala transformed into surreal splendor. While there were few of his paintings on exhibit the collections of decorations, installations and taxidermist animals in odd arrangements was fascinating.
Oh if the walls could talk I bet the parties were otherworldly!

It looks like I may have sold one of our bikes! Hopefully we can find another buyer for the other one.
Sent from my pea pod.

Location:Cadaques, Spain

Bikes for Sale

Portbou to Cadaques 30km with at least 3 Malahats!

Ok today was a brutal but stunningly beautiful. We are now in Dali's back yard and we hope to visit his house tomorrow. Cadaques is a lovely fishing village that has exploded into an art colony turned resort.

So now we are ready to sell the bikes. So if there is anyone out there who wants a good deal come to Cadaques and they are yours! I have no idea how we will do this, I don't even speak Spanish and Gord doesn't have the seller's chutzpah to do it either. Wish us luck we need it. It doesn't really matter if we can't sell them we will just give them away.

Location:Avinguda de Caritat Serinyana,Cadaqués,Spain

Buenos Dias Espagne!

Collioure to Port Bou. 25km

Rooms, Port Bou
Today we rode over the end of the Pyrenees and down into Port Bou, the first town on the Spanish side. The twisty road along the coast was tough but beautiful. Now we are in serious linguistic trouble, however, trying to switch into Spanish. Renting a room was a challenge. I seem to be going from French to English and then to some sort of mixture with a few Spanish words thrown in. Come on neuro-networks you can do it!Sent from my pea pod.

Living it up in Collioure

Narbonne to Collioure by train
Hotel Frigate

This is an extraordinary town! I wouldn't want to come within a mile of here in the summer because even now it is just crawling with tourists, but for good reason. Mom you would love it and want to stay for months! It is far more Catalan than French here and we are getting very close to the border.

Right now I sitting in front of a little beach tightly packed in-between two fortified stone outcroppings. Today's forecast was for rain and cloud but if I stay here any longer I will need sunscreen. Of course it doesn't hurt the situation that we are staying in a grand hotel with a balcony overlooking the square. This is not the norm for us, Last night's "treat" made me probably the only woman at the hotel not collecting a fee. That being said there were no bed bugs and the sewer gas smell wasn't too bad if we kept the sink full of water and the bathroom door closed. Even frugal Gord is loving our luxurious room here.

Location:Collioure, France

Another taste of the Canal de Midi

Beziers to Narbone 30km





We left too early today. It was a cold but beautiful ride along the Canal de Midi. My hands, even in gloves, took most of the ride to warm up. It was poor timing because by afternoon it was sunny and 18 degrees.

Just out of Beziers we passed a section of nine locks on the Canal raising the water level up a hill side that was almost too steep to cycle. The river barge folk cheered us on as we passed. Other than the one hill the canal is by design is flatter than flat. Some portions of the tow path are paved but for the most part it's a good dirt path.

We left the canal after about ten km when it veered the wrong direction and made much faster progress on the road. One odd sight on the road in the middle of nowhere was a buxom Afro-French woman putting on her stockings on a chair pulled up to the side of the highway. Within the next kilometer there were two more of these mini skirt wearing nature lovers. Boy I bet they were cold!



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Location:Impasse du Lion d'Or,Narbonne,France

The Midi Canal

Avignon to Agde by train
Agde to Beziers by bike 25km

It feels like we have come back into summer or spring weather again. It was starting to get pretty cool in Provence. The midi canal was beautiful in the late day light.

Location:Allée Paul Riquet,Béziers,France

Sous le Pont D' Avignon

Our plans change daily, but we are not even going to try to use our Ryanair flights from Marseille to Madrid. We were stupid and bought tickets for November 6 which is scheduled as a general strike day in France. Poorly chosen also because the Marseille airport is one of the most active unionized groups in France. I am not going to rant about the booking and pricing practices of Ryanair but I now understand why it can offer 19 euro fares across Europe. It makes it's money off of booking fees, luggage fees and a virtually non existent refund policy. Truly the official airline of the Race to the Bottom of 21st century.

There is good reading in the International Herald Tribune and the next time Gord openly grieves the fact that I have developed a mind of my own I will just sent him to the advertisement in today's paper: "Beautiful Czech women non-feminist ages 17 to 60. www.eastern-europe-women.com. "
Sent from my pea pod.

Today I am just having a relaxing day in Avignon. If you are cheap like us and you don't want to give up euros for a visit to a broken bridge you instead walk under it where you can sing the equally charming song "sous le pont D'Avignon..."

Location:Rue de Mazan,Avignon,France

On the trail of Van Gogh

Les Baux to Avignon 40km
Hotel Mignon
Today we began with a beautiful ride through the Alpilles with a long descent into St. Remy. Everyone has likely seen an image of St. Remy without realizing it. The town is immortalized in perhaps Van Gogh's best known painting "Starry Night". Van Gogh committed himself to a convent hospital for a year in St. Remy where he painted at least 150 paintings.

We are now in Avignon where we will likely spend a few nights before continuing on a loop through the Luberon.

It's not all sunflowers and irises though. It turns out our swanky hotel from last night was infested with bed bugs and we have lots of big itchy welts! I wonder if Churchill suffered the same fate there. We will never give up...

Location:Rue Joseph Vernet,Avignon,France