tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24379215271611371962024-02-19T05:28:24.707-08:00Slow Travel on Foot and by BicycleRuth and Gord's experiences with slow travel Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.comBlogger598125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-64102478969881744772021-09-21T10:05:00.001-07:002021-09-21T10:08:56.607-07:00My Ancestors from the Azores<img id="id_f9dc_a68f_4e10_7c9e" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EzhKcalxt3TpATf1XjlyiDGcdSIswevfak--z_qV_NOGvQLWONq3iRHYwchOXEN5IKM" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Gordon: Manoel “Emmanuel” Tavare de Miranda was born on the island of Graciosa, a few kilometres from where we are staying, in 1648. He was my seventh great-grandfather.</span><div><font face="UICTFontTextStyleBody"><span style="font-size: 17px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span></font><div><img id="id_82b6_e4c_af8_ac54" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/6-akh4n8xL871W937vkOfGpdbyp2tBz-qn2pG9uFFg28ga49O6TjoNgGAuEo-zGFKhA" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">According to the genealogical records that Ruth has researched, Manoel became a sailor and left the island of his birth as a young man for the bright lights of 17th century Quebec. Records show that in the New World he was unlucky, but persistent, in love. At the age of 22 he contracted for marriage with a “fille du Roi”, but it was subsequently cancelled. Five years later he was “keeping company” with another woman, but she was ordered by the city authorities at Quebec “to clear out of this city and its outskirts within three days, owing to her bad reputation”. Manoel apparently cleared out as well, though not with his recent lover. He appeared again four years later in Nova Scotia, where he married an Acadian widow, Marguerite Bourgeois, my seventh great-grandmother. Manoel settled down to a life of farming and family, eventually having nine children, as well as 18 cattle, 8 sheep and 30 hogs on 25 arpents of land. I don’t know if anyone in my family has been as successful since.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">A couple of days ago Ruth and I cycled through Guadalupe, the parish where Manoel was born. A woman gardening by the road waved us down and peppered us with the usual questions. After a few minutes I disclosed my distant familial connection with the island. The local woman, Maria, was dismissive until Ruth pulled out the family tree she had developed for Manoel. His great-grandfather, Captain Domingos Pires da Covilhã, was an important figure in the early history of Graciosa. Sometime near the end of the sixteenth century O Capitão brought an image of Our Lady of Guadalupe to the Island from Mexico. This was housed in a church in Guadalupe that he founded.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Maria became quite excited when she realized that I was a descendant of Captain Covilhã. She insisted we come to the house museum <span dir="ltr">on Monday morning</span>, telling us she had a local history book we should review.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">This morning we cycled to the house museum at the agreed time, but found the museum closed. Calling the contact number posted in the window, I immediately realized that I was speaking with Maria. She drove up in a few minutes and gave us a complete, private tour of the museum. It is located in a late-18th century house crammed full of artifacts. The main floor was a general store, at one time the only one on the island, and the upstairs was the home of a successful local businessman and his family. Maria followed us around, provided non-stop commentary and documented our movements with a large number of photos. We were treated to homemade cookies and candies, and two types of local liquor.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Eventually emerging into the street, Maria insisted that we follow her to other sites relevant to my forebears. We visited the location of the church founded by my ancestor, now in ruins, as well as the site of a house that had been occupied by the priest at the church. There was a final trip to the municipal office to photocopy the family tree developed by Ruth, an exchange of addresses, and the verbal assurance that we would see each other around town in the week we are remaining on the Island.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Don’t you love a place that treats you like a prodigal son after an absence of 350 years?</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"> </div></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div><div><img id="id_ac96_4459_918b_ba25" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/SQhc3HSoWd1eTgaQ4RInffQttJ-xp8S5eBJUW9pQAsSLxF2JXZdPI63MQAmsMHHaEj0" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div><div><img id="id_1eb_eebd_b5a5_be62" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uNcmDfCdXaxRAtaumuc78qwkO_0mQV5PGHoENUnYY8x_ZtFVy_ne-bqB72I3H0lbbtc" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_f9b5_29bf_3656_dd2a" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/R06e6cSjscVhL1uRZsu9fVebrJkxrtcj-Fd7UFguFHoxJAuKro9a1EWBIfBAOdfJ6jA" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_35a7_bd29_1a34_c1d6" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/TCFZv040AdvdZzaVs3oY6ksN8KoJ8vFRpbU5_1VMrU-X5ApGBDeau_o60MjBgIQbo3E" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-36113276979158976172021-09-04T19:03:00.001-07:002021-09-04T19:03:59.815-07:00Moving our BlogOur blog is moving over to our new address:<div><br></div><div><a href="https://lifewithruthandgord.com/our-blog/">https://lifewithruthandgord.com/our-blog/</a></div><div><br></div><div>Please join us there. </div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-47693737655942520222021-08-05T16:44:00.001-07:002021-08-09T16:50:08.372-07:00Slow Return on the Mystery TourAugust 4, 2021<div><img id="id_5cf9_7b10_c42c_5c54" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JnEs4vTZECH9RN1sPJnD8HoD68rGHrjBNnms8qQvRIIngzKZszfzUoPWOdZAQNg4jk8" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br>Killy General Store, Harrison Mills</div><div><br><img id="id_69ea_6946_7bd2_e9a1" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JlRN1KuCwMu2kygWDOumzBv1OWH-1SBwb_YDH3HaEY7D4vwyxK0OZrrjar9zgQocSaw" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><div>Ruth:</div><div>Hope to Mission: 91 kms</div><div>Our ride back from Hope to Mission was completely different from our trip out. The smoke from the fires at the north end of Harrison Lake filled the valley with a thick smoke. It felt like a weird twilight rather than the middle of the day. The barn we had passed before was now much less sharp. I decided to paint the view of it in the sun instead of in the smoke.</div><div> <img id="id_da48_7d96_c223_b98" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w_6Gh5E9XkUDtZl_-CJWgW4_LNRjltLlCIvsERPHbSkuw6I-1EItJ6ES3EeJ-tHzkT0" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br>Mission to Vancouver: 72kms</div><div>Ok, sometimes Pocket Earth gets it wrong. The best route into Vancouver to my sister’s house is not to the top of Burnaby Mountain!!! I didn’t catch it because Vancouver is such a grid and the roads looked straight on the map. They were straight but not flat! Wowee! Fortunately we were feeling pretty strong and we made it in one piece. </div><div>It was great to have some time with my sister Joan. </div><div><br></div><div><img id="id_d90c_eea6_283c_fdcb" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/GnUmC8NBbMaryZqp5HB8pvzvGH7kf9EEwQIJfsXMWx5EK1ra8G8WaxTLEK5qkwOKWuY" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br>Vancouver to Victoria: 83 Kms. Total for trip: 717 kms.</div><div>Just enjoy the ride, I kept telling myself, but it still made me mad. Cyclists have to travel 20 kms further than cars to get to the ferry. The backtrack to New Westminster was lovely and we are now old hands at crossing the Alex Fraser bridge. </div><div><br></div><div>We were keen to get an early ferry so we decided to take highway 17. Lots of traffic, but nice big shoulders. After a few kilometres we heard a bang and watched as a car spun and rolled and a truck became airborne after fishtailing and hitting its own trailer. We were sure there would be fatalities, but fortunately everyone exited their vehicles. Next time I’ll take the country roads!</div><div><br></div><div>While it would have been interesting to cycle across B.C. and perhaps the Prairies, our cat assured us that we made the right decision. It was wonderful to be back on the bikes seeing new places, if only for 11 days. And there is still the possibility of a bike trip in Europe in the Fall…</div><div><br></div><img id="id_2f6c_172e_1495_1142" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/zcSxhoRumFfMpPnVUutpdVJGnIuAcITs51MpAWNPgcPxcYKAyW1qjNfE1vQQUl1iihc" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><div><br><br><br><br> </div></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-88794252382353305852021-08-01T18:46:00.001-07:002021-08-01T18:49:27.417-07:00Back to Allison Summit in a Ford<p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">July 31, 2021</span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"></span>Today: 68 Kms mostly down </p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><img id="id_3443_74c3_1045_256b" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EQ6G7MPHjAUtDMY37UvB0btrchYX2dVkLia2QD-sn-8qROUKFhaMlZEHWXuLX03X27w" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><img id="id_e388_e375_a5b7_81de" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/D5bNn5TazXSbcyiW7ksRMTYf_KqyqbkgdLkQ7phFEMTHq7IvEwMLNlxMe85EuC0-FhM" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">Valerie, Perry, Dave and Kari have been friends since they were in grade school in the 60’s. We were warned that a ride in their truck might be entertaining, and it was. We were in Dave and Kari’s truck, but the banter between the two vehicles over walkie-talkies was constant. Parry would let us know when he spotted a deer or any other wildlife. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Behind the wheel of his Ford F-350 Dave would tease Parry about whether or not he could keep up in his Chevy truck. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When we made it to Allison Pass in Manning Park, we asked to be dropped off. Kari got onto the walkie talkie and said, “We’re getting sick and tired of these two so we’re going to dump them out at the next pull out.” <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Kari then looked back at us with a great big smile. </span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"></span><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">Even without the much needed lift, running into this group of friends was such a lucky break. We thoroughly enjoyed our time with them and hope to reconnect in Victoria. </span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"></span><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">There is a new fire burning in Manning Park and the clear skies we previously had at the summit were replaced with thick smoke. A health hazard for sure, but on a downhill run, manageable. We flew down the road and were back in Hope in 3.5 hours. Unfortunately, the smoke came with us. </span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><br></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><img id="id_e66_cca7_5515_6d1c" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/AOiFoN_0CQYxexylEl79XkTftiQ8GLqm4AQ7US3RV8C57N4Nn7LUjgo7x-Lsbxo-Kk8" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">I must say bike trips in BC are great for food. After our long coast down we returned to our motel to bathe and then set off for another wonderful curry dinner at the Indian/Italian restaurant. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I love seeing signs for all the interesting combo restaurants, including “Sushi and Fried Chicken”, “Chinese and Canadian”, and “Greek, Italian and Indian”. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>While these are all impressive in the breadth of their offerings, in Mission this afternoon we kept it simple and had a delicious meal at a restaurant offering only Indian cuisine.</span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><img id="id_67d6_fef4_a7ac_9c48" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/zvg7HDDiyA5ehmQTFQXQrfM89yNCMegrubtEZZ1vJ1Ngol3NnOY50T92M5XDEwY7E00" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br></span><br></p> Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-58641072046412468272021-08-01T06:57:00.000-07:002021-08-01T06:57:00.162-07:00Manning to Hedley: BC is Burning<p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">July 30, 2020</p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">Today 68km. </span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><br><img id="id_2467_3e2_5c9c_d141" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/gnamp5hz1W1H4OovllWSvl9K4ZfYTlRnlc05bAtA3f3jqfo99Sp2oUcIDJYjf2MlePQ" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><br></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><img id="id_8ca1_4011_84bf_b9cb" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/n_Sa2TjCTXB1U5yta10RIDnY6a9AiS_u7l4uV5vWr1RPSh_2rdlU3_U2iwYWmpepWuc" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br></span><img id="id_f015_256_fb71_f68f" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sQ8pWfLoJQQm5fGP7zCJbmmH6_dNVklF0pcAz8KATlS00h6d6XWddF65AeOvSOZa3o8" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_a5c9_e9f8_dc8_b662" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LHg9r82Oyrvpc0zL4EUyPyoCyAHLkWZyr_jiHf19rHA9bGXku6h1wbLizS2bPcrt_9A" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br>Forestry Camp Sight on Old Hadley Road before the smoke. </p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Ruth:</p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">5:00 PM</p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">Gord and I are sitting in our camping chairs watching the orange glow of the sun as small flakes of ash drift down around us. Many are needle shaped - but all ash. Our solar charger is barely charging because the sun is so shrouded by smoke. </span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"></span><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">I just looked up again and the sun has completely disappeared. In spite of this, <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>it’s still stinking hot. We are continually getting into the river to cool off. Apparently this is smoke from a fire just over the ridge on the American side of the border. </span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"></span><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">The Similkameen River has always been one of my favourite rivers and it doesn’t disappoint up close. The water is cool and clear with beautiful polished bolders. We are camped in a Forestry Campground on the Old Hedley road. Our neighbors in the campground are also from Victoria and they generously shared beer and peaches with us. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Valerie, Perry, Dave and Karry just want to go home after three weeks of smoke. Getting back to the island, however is challenging. Apparently the Ferries are completely beyond capacity and for the first time ever they have shut the road to cars without a reservation. </span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"></span><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">There are turning points in many vacations and we have had a few today. We left Manning Park a day earlier because it looked like we could make it past East Gate and the fire without too much smoke. Eastgate was fine but just as the climb began the smoke became much thicker. I put on my mask and started pedaling for a few kms when a guy from Calgary turned around on the highway and came back for us. He had a bike rack!!! <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He took us to the summit when there was less smoke and we sailed down into Princeton.</span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><br></span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"></span><img id="id_7452_e590_3076_79ed" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/1Y3pzSRUwRiLchwKrokm_W3SWsuM3AUiWkZSRQVOOq5AomnQoIPiWAam87AP4gMa-O8" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_f364_63d7_5127_2c68" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/G9yiTM2CWFh31-wOeEbwIWeLkwOlrTCL3avaVuw3dU9WaZ0qgZNTB7BOvdik-sZXg3g" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">Our second turning point happened this afternoon when Dave mentioned that a big piece of ash came down still smouldering. Then he said, you know we have room for your bikes in the trailer. In an instant I had agreed for the both of us that a ride heading west was our best option. This mystery ride was turning West.</span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><br></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><img id="id_7375_72c5_c4fd_b7f4" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/Y7vDl5hNh7upDhbdqxDaieGchlzO6yM0adx02ZE6pFVF6X2leVZIDvbLp1CX3gRGwUo" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br></span><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><br></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><br></span></p> Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-2093110018640846042021-07-31T18:23:00.001-07:002021-07-31T18:32:23.185-07:00Sunshine Valley to Manning Park Lodge<img id="id_6c79_be59_763a_1b96" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/ijGtzsqWWxeJkHZ0p_eIMuikOlTmR4sXCfID-AEfdvkD0trz_ycjQlXymjNCk0OsNhA" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br> <div>July 29, 2021 </div><div>56 kms</div><div>We had a great ride up to Allison Pass from Sunshine Valley. Our knees were fine and although the climb was hot we both felt strong. We treated ourselves to a room in the Lodge and enjoyed a gluttonous dinner in the restaurant. </div><div><br></div><div>If Gord has been a tad over optimistic in his predictions about our abilities to skirt the fires and smoke, I have been Chicken Little. In my defence (spoiler alert) the sky will actually start falling. I have been endlessly trying to plan contingencies in case the smoke is too much for me. Do we go on? Do we head back? Is there a taxi in Princeton? Could we buy a car? The last was a definite NO from an exasperated Gordon. Manning seemed to be a decision point to either turn back or continue on. The fires and smoke forecast even for the park do not look good. </div><div><br></div><div><img id="id_cd0_53c7_647f_f050" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/0f65ovtsV8jL7OZ1qyOduI8PIRlVLb8bR_vt8Q8JwTUYVVfS05R4CbxsOJ5WL_ryCd4" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><br></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-64050679182377856762021-07-28T18:00:00.001-07:002021-07-28T18:54:38.468-07:00Hope to Sunshine Valley( Formerly the Tashme Internment Camp)<p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">July 28, 2021</p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"></span><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><img id="id_a453_23b4_a9c4_5f38" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xstGJeZtnOB2uaCeEeq6v1-EKS6tKi1ORKBiFm2X6eD5VNx-mge3Np4gYH9XkS99Cxs" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto; margin: 4px;"><br>The Hope Slide, the high point on today’s ride.</span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><br></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">Today’s ride: 25 kms (but 850 metres of climbing)</span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">Trip total: 255 kms</span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><br></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">Ruth: Well, the mystery tour carries on, but the jury is still out on whether or not we will be able to continue. The Garrison Lake fire is raging a few kilometres away from the highway between Manning Park and Princeton. Air quality plummeted through that corridor today and it is very possible Manning will have to be a turn around point. Gord has informed me that this is contrary to his magical thinking about unicorns, rainbows and clear skies through BC. I think he may have suffered a stroke. </span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"></span><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">We are camping at the RV park in Sunshine Valley after a short but hard day of climbing. The owners kindly told us that there is a bear in the area and suggested we:</span></p><ol class="ol1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><li class="li1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal;"><span class="s1">Put our food in a cooler?!$#*! </span></li><li class="li1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal;"><span class="s1">And bring it into our tent **#%$&?!!!! </span></li></ol><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">I guess that’s how they feed their wildlife. </span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"></span><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">Sunshine Valley was “home” to BC’s largest Japanese internet camp, Tashme. More than 2,000 people in more than three hundred shacks survived four cold winters in this valley. The population was largely made up of women, children and the elderly. The men had already been separated from their families and sent to build three of BC’s highways, <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>including the highway between Hope and Princeton. Our tent is sitting in a field where rows and rows of tar paper shacks once stood.</span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"></span><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1">There is a wonderful little museum here that was opened on our request. It’s really worth a visit. The owner and curator, Ryan Ellen, gave us a tour and shared a lot of his knowledge of the Tashme camp. Less reliable was the NFB film made at the time. It continued to refer to Tashme as a town rather than an internment camp and suggested that the Japanese became healthier once they were relocated. </span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><br></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><img id="id_fef6_4278_72ea_ca80" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/yEslpa-fpdVyTpSxl8ZG_INuKQAO-Qkf7PFG_JRQL9tgVtLxLEZ9-gHsGZEdtAp9I6s" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_568c_4c69_ee16_b6e1" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/ebF5ghVebiJg-fHShNwqG3K4LwuTjSIp435nUnA20linlRkPGyNzQnfMEvjIw9pypK0" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br></span><br><br></p> Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-19095337791351582262021-07-27T18:54:00.001-07:002021-07-27T20:18:14.456-07:00 Leaving the Lower Mainland<p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><img id="id_870a_a64f_e959_3e68" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LJ_WyETT0bWZr9SxM05txetX6QYdDTC1pmtHjehZiyb-seRewcILSLx4E31sNZtkdpM" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-size: 17pt;"><font face="Arial Narrow">Today’s ride: 86 kms (Mission to Hope)</font></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-size: 17pt;"><font face="Arial Narrow">Trip total: 230 kms</font></span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><font face="Arial Narrow"><span class="s1" style="font-size: 17pt;"></span><br></font></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-size: 17pt;"><font face="Arial Narrow">Gordon: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve lived in B.C. for more than 35 years, yet I had never taken the highway to Hope along the north side of the Fraser River. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>“Pity”, as they said in the Red Rose tea commercial, because it is a varied and beautiful route.</font></span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><font face="Arial Narrow"><span class="s1" style="font-size: 17pt;"></span><br></font></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-size: 17pt;"><font face="Arial Narrow">By the time we reached Mission, last night’s stop, we had surrendered the excellent cycling infrastructure of the Lower Mainland, and entered a world where bikes are rare and barely acknowledged. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Mission appeared to still be within a (long) commuting distance from Vancouver, and traffic in the late afternoon was fairly heavy.</font></span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><font face="Arial Narrow"><span class="s1" style="font-size: 17pt;"></span><br></font></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-size: 17pt;"><font face="Arial Narrow">Leaving Mission early this morning, the traffic was light and the light was beautiful. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We passed through some rich looking farmland, mostly producing blueberries, corn or dairy products, until the farms were crowded out by the hills. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was a generally flat road, but eventually we found ourselves surrounded by heavily treed mountains. </font></span></p><p class="p2" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 20.3px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><font face="Arial Narrow"><span class="s1" style="font-size: 17pt;"></span><br></font></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-size: 17pt;"><font face="Arial Narrow">Tomorrow we climb into those mountains as we cycle towards Manning Park on Highway 3. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Our ability to continue the tour has been rendered doubtful by the fires that are burning throughout the interior of the province, and indeed, across the western half of the continent. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve been telling Ruth that “I have a good feeling about our chances of getting through the interior”, which she is treating as some sort of flaky spirituality. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Judging by the highway camera pictures that Ruth has been reviewing each day, smoke conditions do appear to be improving along our route. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Perhaps I’ll have to sacrifice a goat near the Alberta border.</font></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-size: 17pt;"><font face="Arial Narrow"><br></font></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 17px; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-size: 17pt;"><img id="id_8d9f_616f_9313_bbf" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/aZKO3MvmW4cmXD9__s6GZtjFuMFprZs5wEfWDZDup2JQ3w9A2m3h_7pWGiiE9z0btXk" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br></span><img id="id_29c5_5e83_f2ef_79f1" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fscJ5meRtCmu62RgMXVC8O4407blYWKl7nbd0SyMlafm3cX0wvgSJNI-gOQl_Ztgsas" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_dee_ab6f_60eb_e7b8" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4Wl4SeiXhqAW6NVE04dHzwhnMv4lO3fbbBHTlxOJnO4B8I4ax_0Ddr9h2peAqKgUpBk" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><font face="Arial Narrow"><br></font></p> Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-68342394423104972332021-07-26T06:39:00.001-07:002021-07-26T08:02:47.808-07:00Victoria to New Westminster on the Local Trails<div><br></div><img id="id_670a_b97b_da69_c8be" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/Zy3EBeSqXm_CZVESigDwtTAcFJEaPDn9hmqkGFd7dNr5BB0DJPlZP65TEqVJkXlT6yA" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><div><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);"><br></span></div><div><img id="id_7676_b20_b4bf_4253" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/PvJxU2LrrwBjU3yveGkMYANsI7oY92OxZ-y4UxI-6gpekqcJnMd31j4kqwnIbyGEQ9w" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_93f8_85c7_eedf_be62" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/Do7MKn7ARmLg2N8cBeXfq90r6q_VMzdDnSlU5eBdhbivDl4EZUGDoZao7XGDToiJn9o" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br>July 25, 2021<div>Ruth: </div><div>Gord got up before the crack of dawn to make us fresh bread <br><div><div>for our lunch on the road. I’m a pretty lucky woman. </div></div></div><div><br></div><div>We have always wanted to start a tour right from our doorstep. No planes, no airports, no bike boxes or jet lag, just rolling off down our local bike trails. </div><div><br></div><div>Today’s ride was a huge surprise as we spent almost all of it on paved and unpaved local bike paths. Right off of the ferry we followed a dyke path around Boundary Bay and then took smaller roads to connect with a path that goes along one side of Burns Bog. This delivered us to the base of the bridges over the Fraser - all with sidewalks to cycle over safely. We have travelled all over the world using the routes the app Pocket Earth provides for us, and it has only led us astray a few times. </div><div><br></div><div>The world seems to have opened up from Covid restrictions, regardless of whether that’s wise. This was our first venture off the island in 17 months. It was strange to see most people on the Ferry without masks. Stranger still to arrive at our friends Bruce and Marg’s house to stay!!!</div><div>Strange but wonderful, I hope it lasts. </div><div><br></div><div><img id="id_e540_b882_ca18_8b92" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/2hI-mKM1GnesbiLumAWrb3bFyyu6x12VAeRzPzuH0JpW25yWav9Bl6mgl9EJSPdMQ3U" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_fa5a_16db_d4ba_209d" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/UcflLjA-l7duK7PmRfP2b79KZeOjmMCMFuqquUh3CV0rJLQAKlJbAmM6aeFIkIN2oOo" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><br><br><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-14187986767817569652021-07-24T19:25:00.001-07:002021-07-24T19:25:39.341-07:00The Mystery Cycle Trip Begins<img id="id_8aa3_ea43_c2f1_9f36" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/z2PhNyBNRUhqQDKtXGsw6XrFpf8hEzCSnlIgNkQ-JROQForJfth5xQpQUBHPvKeG0oU" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br> <div>July 24, 2021</div><div>Victoria B.C.</div><div><br></div><div>Tomorrow we start out on a Mystery ride. With Covid border closures and forest fires burning in southern B.C. We are not sure how far we will get. We are heading East to see if we can dodge the smoke and make it through B.C. </div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-26733100192210911182020-08-31T13:43:00.001-07:002021-07-24T09:39:29.110-07:00Covid: Last weeks of Summer<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;">August 31, 2020</div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><img alt="" id="id_af0f_8a30_3a91_6013" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/85CD6OEMlqHF3LM95xiauDM5CdoXaBFl7TbHdUMgDXojRxVfZk8pWzNsF5n7ffU" style="height: auto; width: 392px;" title="" tooltip="" /><br /></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><img alt="" id="id_729e_fea_565a_25f4" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/MqgsjhKDtSZ4ja2XlJlIsosW_ACvYkce7qfXDGsAlyXD7xDwR-Wz8owvXIGSDIs" style="height: auto; width: 392px;" title="" tooltip="" /><br /><br /></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><img alt="" id="id_ac10_64b0_1f45_c38a" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/Hm-JwyM4il-PXbqYU3fzjYjKIkz_g3TesildRyxOb9zg6MwaPODJuM9uHP45olg" style="height: auto; width: 392px;" title="" tooltip="" /><br /><br /></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; text-size-adjust: 100%;">Life this summer has been full of contrasts. We have divided our time between our house in Victoria and our off-grid cabin on Valdes Island.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; text-size-adjust: 100%;"> We won’t remember this summer for the time spent in our garden, or for the adventures and projects that filled our days at the cabin. Instead, 2020 will always be remembered for the global pandemic that arrived and put the world as we know it on pause and rudely delivered a new and unwanted reality. </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; text-size-adjust: 100%;">After reading Bruce Grierson’s recent article in the Globe & Mail, I keep returning to the idea of shadow time and how it relates to my world of contrasts. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="https://www.theglobeandmail.com/opinion/article-why-the-pandemic-has-played-havoc-with-our-sense-of-time/">https://www.theglobeandmail.com/opinion/article-why-the-pandemic-has-played-havoc-with-our-sense-of-time/</a></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; text-size-adjust: 100%;">According to the Bureau of Linguistical Reality,</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; text-size-adjust: 100%;">Shadow time is: </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span face=""Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; background-color: #f1f0f0; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px; text-size-adjust: none;">A parallel timescale that follows one around throughout day to day experience of regular time. Shadowtime manifests as a feeling of living in two distinctly different temporal scales simultaneously, or acute consciousness of the possibility that the near future will be drastically different than the present.</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; background-color: #f1f0f0; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); font-size: 16px; text-size-adjust: none;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; text-size-adjust: 100%;">I have been sitting on my deck watching a kingfisher chatter and then dive for its breakfast. I’m not quite close enough to see whether or not it has the rust coloured belt indicating it is a female. Sitting here quietly I watch August drain away with the tides and I am pulled towards September and the opening up of schools. Looking at the ripples on the water I wonder about my future place in this experiment. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;">Two days ago Gord and I jumped into our double kayak and paddled in pursuit of a closer look at some humpback whales fishing off shore. With the Vancouver skyline just barely visible in the distance, this wild stretch of the Georgia Strait bucks any attempt to be tamed by it’s close proximity to the big city. Even on a calm day, the waters boil with seals scampering off the rocks as we pass the safety of Canoe Islet. Heading out into the Strait, we pause to listen and look for the blows of the whales. We make it to within about 300 meters of them before I lose my nerve about venturing any further off shore. The breeze is materializing and out in the Strait things can change quickly. When we turn back towards Valdes, the humpbacks just continue with their fishing and we slip away undetected. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;">Valdes is always a place for shadow time, even in years without Covid. We live in a place that is simultaneously a world away from everything and only 40 kms from downtown Vancouver. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;">I hope that shadow time is not a one way street and that I can conjure up this beautiful life on Valdes as I mask up for teaching. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><br /></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><img alt="" id="id_6ab_4995_6f4e_ab7c" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/TRhNH3n8rSIYjwAOkOjVtq_2iliQw_BQ_Gqllb4dazow7mTY0VFwcP_VBuVFVxY" style="height: auto; width: 392px;" title="" tooltip="" /><br /><br /><img alt="" id="id_41f2_215c_7ae3_d09d" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/CuHV3ZB0cKEHc_4yKpFtvWN3Ak6iEmlje74fGPi1EFsD_aFUEBV6GfB3eawh7yo" style="height: auto; width: 392px;" title="" tooltip="" /><br /><br /></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; text-size-adjust: auto;"><img alt="shadow time" id="id_56b_b854_1602_4a9a" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/pvUkyTcIbhuRLg2zxQkoHkNO2PBT18xTfwiHxXQCwaA8sOMrMTJEGqF0VJ0VDwc" style="height: auto; margin: 4px; width: 392px;" title="" tooltip="" /><br /><br /><br /></div> Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-58370820706468260592020-05-30T07:44:00.001-07:002020-05-30T08:48:53.445-07:00Covid 19: Harold & Maude<br><img id="id_eeb0_3a47_b5d9_6831" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_goaYSEm3DaQflY4B0o2-JYZyUtTxceEzG2znbH8pjyS4CZVD-IDV3LYKD7HYSo" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br>Ruth: When I’m not working online in my office at home, I’m joining the new Covid craze for self-sufficiency. Once enough toilet paper and food stocks have been secured, I turn my attention to gardening, making masks, knitting and baking. Other than the making of masks, these are not new hobbies for me, but the daily routine of working to produce what our house needs needs feels different. <div><br></div><div>Somewhere in the twentieth century, urbanites like me, lost the need to be self-sufficient. Our Covid isolation has brought this very human need back into our lives. Our neighbourhood bakery has remained open throughout the last two months and yet almost everyone I know is baking. There was a two week period when flour and yeast shortages appeared in the grocery stores, but they are now well stocked again. On certain days, there are more articles on facebook about sourdough starter than the virus. </div><div><br></div><div>As we begin to broaden our social circles, our home has welcomed in two new members: Harold and Maude. Maude was my first sourdough starter followed by Harold, a back up housemate, in case it didn’t work out with Maude. I am happy to report that Harold and Maude are both thriving and were recently married in a quiet garden ceremony with only immediate family members present. All goes well if I feed them daily and the bread that they offer me in exchange has been amazing. Their offspring have moved out into kitchens of their own. With such limited connections with other people, I love knowing that Harold and Maude’s second generation are happily bubbling in kitchens I still can’t visit myself. </div><div><br></div><div><img id="id_dd5d_c9a1_c8c4_3ea5" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yTUkbyP28Ekcc2Y7ubKllne1uwju781jpy_bxlfZz8TGD3SXNDxzfX_RqTfSet8" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-52498130657711656542020-05-15T08:37:00.001-07:002020-05-30T09:01:46.572-07:00Covid 19: Chicken Little<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><img id="id_3679_c3d7_11ff_a516" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/BudSVZ34bK892pUeM-ldUsrNGEUJejpVRTGi13DGp6On9iS502IhGcUBK9g661w" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);"><br></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><img id="id_779c_928b_922e_1310" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/6hsGwHeqkuRTf2tsBWn9eG404twr623qUmfgZmGG2iy0dufraO6jyWY1rtbQI_Q" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br>Our Garden<br><br><img id="id_1d45_cadc_facd_48c2" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/Epr4jcJNe9T5j98nSgDM-_bfhYYvpkjHSpRyxUIvejBU_ELDArslCRulKC7-slI" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br>Our beautiful cat Russell Street</div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I have been working from home since Spring Break ended, and face to face classes were shut down for all, but the children of essential workers. I’ve been tuning in to listen to our Chief Health Officer Dr. Bonnie Henry for her daily updates. I am now hyper vigilante about following social distancing and hand washing rules. Non-essential travel is still off the table, and our tickets to France for this summer are now just a sad reminder of how our lives have changed. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Working from home means lunches on the deck with Gord and a very happy cat. Spring is in full bloom and the garden looks amazing. Without commuting time to work, I can start bread in the morning and be there to bake it after it rises. Everyone is a baker now, and flour and yeast are coveted shopping finds. Most days Gord and I head out for a bike ride or walk before dinner exploring all the many beautiful places we can get to within an hour or two. We are very lucky to live here in Victoria. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><img id="id_19eb_91e7_3fbb_81d4" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/p8eL00i3aQxs96OaXh_NafFRUbCMW7cpgCZLvou-bz7UG1dSAm_IJP3BJEwIIas" alt="Buchart Gardens " title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto; margin: 4px;"><br>Buchart Gardens<br><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">My work itself is stressful as I try to simultaneously master and teach the new technology that we are using to deliver instruction remotely. Video meetings, emails, phone calls and chats with students and colleagues fill the time. My priority is connecting to the students who are really struggling at home with mental heath or home challenges. Lock downs are dangerous times for at youth at risk. Most of my students are also struggling with the technology needed to video conference. Even with a laptop loaned from school most prefer just a phone call. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">When I need to, I can get up walk into my garden to pick kale for dinner or just take a break in the sun. <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;">In many ways these are the most enviable work conditions, so why am I more stressed than ever?</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;">The Corona virus has robbed me of a sense of predictability, safety and control. I say “sense” because I really am safe, and within each day there is a certain amount of predictability and control. I know I am extremely lucky and much less impacted by the epidemic than most people in the world. I have a safe job, home and city. The curve of cases has been flattened, and our province now has no new community outbreaks. Vancouver Island’s numbers are even better, with only a handful of active cases. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;">It’s the worries about the future that keeps my gut clenched and body braced against a multitude possible catastrophes. And the news is always there to ensure that I have a high definition image of my fears. Usually at 3 or 4 o’clock in the morning I do an inventory of all the scenarios I fear the most: a second and more severe outbreak in the fall, the opening of the Canada/US border, someone I love getting sick or dying , economic collapse, ongoing and more severe lock downs well into the future, and the colossal loss of lives in developing countries and among the poor and vulnerable in our own. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;">Yesterday I received an email from our superintendent that pricked a hole in the bubble of safety I have been trying to maintain. Teachers will all be called back to our schools in two weeks. I have learned the rules to avoid others and stay isolated at home and now I truly fear returning to any situation where I am in close contact in enclosed spaces.</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;">The Corona virus has made me into chicken little, and it really feels like the sky is falling , even though, from my privileged little corner of life, it really isn’t. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;"><br></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><img id="id_853b_8b17_d3ff_5ed8" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/CFnba5lNBpQEGLCUHbTDW2hT4T-aOl6Ez3YvqIwc6GqFnVw_eNMe4End-JEjopI" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_4989_f9b_171b_d137" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/0Xeaa4leKpdlBmGWfucaQZ_ycJLBgeYLgtTbm4z9EyGk2Vxn0DaUyrhBovvFkp0" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;"><br></span></div> Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-25256126581296593502020-03-27T07:52:00.001-07:002020-03-27T08:04:59.380-07:00Covid 19: Leaving Paradise <div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><img id="id_7254_1a7b_3c52_4147" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/skfd6VWgKTukcpB3EY5a_-4zyWeiSBSDovpv8yau3eqnpvxpuYrEg7HMpsRUNsg" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><img id="id_62c3_42a1_3fa1_22a3" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dA5rbM27XJtct5eWT8s2OyG9O3wyvBLiP5EzGKhsEXLHH8j3k-XMpgPFCixq3Hs" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">This morning we are packing up to leave paradise and return to a changed city. Living in the moment has always been easier on Valdes and yet even here I have been navigating intense emotions. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I received an email from our friend Paolo in Northern Italy to let me know that he is safe. His only advice, echoed voices broadcasting from all over Italy: “follow the isolation rules, we didn’t.” </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I am left with the unsettling realization that I cannot convince even some of my close friends to do this. So many people bend or break the rules that don’t work for them. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">At least our small community on Valdes has been social distancing well. Each afternoon, if the weather permits, a small group of us meet on the beach at a safe distance to drink a beer and listen to the daily briefing of the provincial Health officer Dr. Bonnie Henry. Dr. Henry, we are listening. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> There is such a close relationship between fear and anger. When something feels wrong, and it definitely does, I want to blame and become enraged by the actions or inactions of others. Underneath the anger, I am anxious and scared of what is to come. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">As Dr. Henry says, “Be kind, be calm, be safe.”</div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><img id="id_b132_9596_5c52_46f9" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/y_ChjRNHl1SXrQrVeTaupAWtbbMYws6b4fnzlKqonZm-VCTllBul5UNwneZzgjA" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto; margin: 4px;"><br>Nettle Soup and homemade bread. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><img id="id_a90b_e82f_b38f_5bc5" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/2Am05vCbN1dKm_h-VIJ9Cz8Pr1ZPkHn4Xi1_ghfcbWJvRim8ZbiX9RzBps3DQys" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br>Rough skinned newt<br><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"></div> Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-51025375404215143632020-03-24T11:30:00.001-07:002020-03-24T11:40:23.713-07:00Covid 19: Social Distancing<img id="id_a96c_d683_2e19_e4f4" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/c_BEFBlqhA95LxQ4dLTW5JcgOO-0Dz9C3vJWsRwvrkQ8otkfg59iMrtSc9fIN7A" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br> <div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">March 17, 2020</div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The last rays of sun are illuminating the Straight of Georgia between Vancouver and Valdes Island. From my chair in our cabin, I watch a ferry gliding along in the pink light that bathes the coastal range. Mount Baker looks simultaneously solid and ethereal.</div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We we’re supposed to be on route to Moncton to visit Gordon’s aunt and uncle who are 96 and 93 respectively. Yesterday morning we made a quick decision to pull the plug and avoid any risks to Herman and Doris. When we made the decision there were 46 cases of Covid-19 in B.C. and only one on Vancouver island. The risk seemed low, but out of an abundance of caution and a sense of responsibility we cancelled the trip. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Other than stories of hoarding shoppers racing to buy all the toilet paper and hand sanitizers, life seemed fairly normal here. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Today there are 187 cases and seven deaths in the province. A public health emergency has been declared in BC as in many other provinces across the country. The stories coming out of Italy and Spain are a scary warning of what is yet to come. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Schools have been shut indefinitely for in-class instruction but I have been told to report to school on Monday after spring break ends. We will continue to work but may have new and different duties. </div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">We are all practicing “social distancing” now even on Valdes. We are meeting our neighbors each day at the beach but saying 6 feet away from each other at all times. We are feeling very fortunate to have this place to hold up in</div></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><img id="id_651c_1dfd_8586_feb7" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/ML7lKchJiJ5Py-VuruQsFjqeonaDgg-6KqoB5fkhMiQb9gUt4SQEmvGxwfp5aok" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_6d9e_bc2e_3fa8_63dc" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/xlAOTlrO7eVZrvcslq-smH9GAZm-kt6gJcBtNvR3aKkmCQlDixbZVYtcFyz3IW4" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_bdf1_d5fd_d878_84fa" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/UK1oy-jdjY6EuCY_ywgvxwfTHvE_wuWz4GeLFWfhL7dk6u-rsaE-Yo6qRn4Ynn0" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><br></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-71002552926194954482019-11-26T16:28:00.001-08:002019-11-26T16:32:34.613-08:00Kathmandu, and Final comments on the Three Pass Everest Trek<img id="id_ae69_fda6_9430_9a9c" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/vXWrFCNtI7hDLse86HmB_KJOKTe4e4pagcPg9aSHXy_8j9cjllBn22qH-Xs" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_aeec_d162_3b6d_1491" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/DbMTarHKVGZ-m4HhNqiMnLa1mWqUNugV7FWx-Ga4gg8VXFaOhPmd3j2mr4o" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We suffered a bit of anxiety around the flight out of Lukla, as the day before we were scheduled to depart a number of flights were cancelled due to cloudy </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><font size="4">weather. As it turned out</font></span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">, the weather was fine and flights left in as regular a manner as can be expected in Nepal.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">The takeoff at Lukla airport is a unique experience. As at Ramechhap the pilot sets the brake and revs the engines until the whole plane shakes, but when the brake is released at Lukla the plane rolls forward and then tips down the 12 degree pitch of the declining runway. The plane takes only a few seconds to reach the end of the 540 metre runway where it pulls up sharply into the air.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I was fortunate to have a window seat (inches from the pilot) because the 40 minute flight was very scenic. It was remarkable to see where people are living in this corrugated country.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We have a couple of days in Kathmandu, time enough to do a little Christmas shopping. Kathmandu is a typical city in the developing world, with poor air, too many vehicles, and minimal green space. However, we are enjoying the pleasant temperatures (daily range of 12 to 22 degrees Celsius), and the access to showers, curries and bakeries.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Neither Matthew nor Bruce had been to the “Monkey Temple” so we walked there today. A number of Hindu and Buddhist temples are crowded on the top of the temple hill, and monkeys range freely over the structures and grounds. It is an interesting and pleasant place to visit, and the half hour walk each way gave us a chance to see a portion of the city outside the tourist neighbourhood of Thamel.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">General comments regarding the Everest Three Pass trek</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">The Everest Three Pass trek is not a route that I would recommend to all and sundry. Although it is just a walk, the combination of the steep climbing, frequently rough trail surface and altitude makes it more challenging than most of the other popular trekking routes in Nepal. </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">The altitude in particular is a factor not to be underestimated. At 5500 metres there is only half as much oxygen as there is at sea level, and you feel that deficiency with every step uphill. On the Annapurna trek we slept above 4000 metres for two nights, but on the Three Pass trek we stayed above that level for 10 nights, including two nights above 5000 metres. We acclimatized without difficulty, but we still suffered from reduced appetite and less than ideal sleep.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">It is a remarkable and humbling experience to walk amongst the highest peaks on earth. The air is crystal clear in the fall, and the sheer scale of the landscape is awe inspiring. That said, the areas above 4300 metres are mostly rock and ice scarcely inhabited by man or beast. Towards the end of the trek it was a pleasure to descend to more congenial altitudes to see the forests, animals and villages. If I were to do another trek in this country I might look for one that spent more time at the more culturally interesting mid-elevations, although it is exciting to cross at least one high pass.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">In closing I would like to thank Matthew and Bruce for their humour, tenacity and equanimity. We had a great time together, with shared decision making and no conflict. I think the Three Pass trek is an experience we will all vividly remember for the rest of our lives.</span><div><font face="UICTFontTextStyleBody"><span style="font-size: 17px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span></font> <div><img id="id_a628_7eaa_a83e_1e8d" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/BhHby9vPijGimqNvzHer4Vypw4sEltiRqMO_gMl8kd2T23pQ0KsOXbqWUWA" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_8273_aa55_8ef0_f119" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ISgHFJ4q9k8iE7L1w2lYAjywKs9mHL8s8ANXzzj7n4xcUjbi-XCBSILi_M" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_ad7c_febc_3e9c_cbb5" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/ajoWJfml-m7vChnxL_pOgbZDOOprC6N9RuB72R8WzZC-jeCjt0xgzwuYw-o" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_c9f2_9e89_b1e3_c554" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/r-kYYH1vMvCN5nr_fTTrCGnIhNv6B1cL-bC0D3scHXIeZasMsePGO5MheNg" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_d890_126e_6342_d9a7" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/saj9vjtorkHF5AXIki_PTiW5-qJPz9nTE0oxKhIPR5QRrlqttRGU6FsiCKM" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-29244102501113813482019-11-24T06:30:00.001-08:002019-11-24T06:36:54.642-08:00 The end of the Trek<img id="id_96c4_8d2a_b5d6_30fb" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/ElG-SWDpzz0b3UKfGog2gol596LZByeZ9NTWCN15GEfaS68smYj2k3TpMdk" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_3d5a_b3d5_3325_6910" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/MePQpWGOBvUDD2p8Cco750ZqzaGEPE4PYFwt7RXjCOKSRW9Ii9ymdJW0rSA" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We completed the Everest Three Pass trek <a href="x-apple-data-detectors://0" dir="ltr" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="calendar-event" x-apple-data-detectors-result="0" style="text-decoration-color: rgba(127, 127, 127, 0.380392);">in 19 days</a>, leaving us with two days before our flight to Kathmandu. We considered various options and finally settled upon an overnight excursion along the trail towards Jiri. This trail is one of the options for those that would prefer to walk to Lukla rather than take a flight. It typically takes six days and is only used by about 1000 trekkers per year.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">The trail towards Jiri drops from beside the runway at Lukla, plunging 500 metres to the village of Sirke. As I headed down this little used trail I immediately noticed some differences from the main trail to Everest Base Camp: the trail was in poorer repair and there was an abundance of garbage. The EBC trail obviously benefits from some buffing and polishing to please the tourists.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">After bottoming out at Sirke, we started a strenuous climb. Matthew was struggling a bit due to his cold, so after climbing for 400 metres we stopped for the night at a modest guesthouse at a viewpoint in the middle of nowhere. Not only was the view superb, but they had a cat, which are rather scarce in this region. It cost me the cheese topping from my potatoes with vegetables and cheese, but the young Tom and I became good friends.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">During the middle of the day we encountered almost continuous mule trains going in both directions on the trail. Lukla is not connected by road to the rest of the world, so I had wondered how most of the food, fuel, building materials and other stuff was transported to the town. It appears that much of it arrives on a mule’s back.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Today we walked back to Lukla, partly on a trail we had not previously walked. We were very fortunate to see a langur monkey and three otter. The otter had yellow flanks and were even more beautiful than the ones we see on the B.C. coast.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">After four hours of walking we arrived back in Lukla, our 21 day trek complete. It has been an extraordinary experience.</span><div><font face="UICTFontTextStyleBody"><span style="font-size: 17px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span></font> <div><img id="id_4e89_553_8d5_daea" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/Fsd19jJoNGXus4fSsob8Y4k0a1Z9UEmIjf8MFM9vxShyhCqiFkk_ecB3uCc" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_2d19_6d5a_71df_62b6" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/frM6Yho4e2H_dvQjukzwS6G-mEGOQJEI3-vNAkU3hAvPR81WkAScv0nkSRQ" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_ca6b_f46e_fb52_f638" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/Gr_oOF3XkxFTuvDq8X9TJOM-8NohT4xUcMT2EXrKBdCma54QowrqZhXsz9o" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_4d1c_15a_f279_d7bc" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/30dQrUUrnCstAXLGnAqGs404JY2WTIr5enX4rqEKAikSZ8u2X_wFTwXAcwk" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_735_6b74_e046_4af1" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/nzJ9y8Zvrsbh3vSwWosfTkFT9XXYuh8A0H75qqGMWW2-Jjelqj-IPZJbUMs" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-26645018186794037622019-11-22T07:32:00.001-08:002019-11-22T07:35:52.374-08:00Lukla<img id="id_1061_75e9_1c50_eb80" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/kSV5bqzTHy9shrMAyQkzCirjnQzvOEblxM9ByCdVN82X0n3S8baB75Wrexw" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_751d_6596_1e2d_2650" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/s1ET3dEE4jWJaG_GagZK2J90zufeErkKrohdJApdePAEqdCBh_klvE7tfh8" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We had a relaxed two day walk from Namche to Lukla. As we lost elevation the vegetation became lusher and the human population more dense.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Last night we stayed at a small family run guesthouse in Tok Tok, about midway between Namche and Lukla. The owner was a mountaineer in his younger years and had summited Lhotse and another 8000 metre peak in Tibet, as well as climbing above 8000 metres on Everest. He and his wife treated us like royalty, and then told us they wouldn’t charge for the room. He had a particular affection for Canadians.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">While at the guesthouse we decided to sample some homemade chhyang, or rice beer. A pitcher cost the equivalent of $3.50 and provided each of us with three tumblers of milky, acidic tasting drink. After consuming these we found ourselves wandering down the trail to the municipal checkpoint. We weren’t carrying our permits, but we drifted past the checkpoint without incident. I was a little concerned about coming back past the checkpoint without the appropriate paperwork, but the officials just ignored us. Perhaps they had seen tourists in the grip of chhyang delirium in the past, and assumed we were harmless. We returned to the guesthouse and had a two hour nap, feeling much refreshed upon waking.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><a href="x-apple-data-detectors://1" dir="ltr" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="calendar-event" x-apple-data-detectors-result="1" style="text-decoration-color: rgba(127, 127, 127, 0.380392);">This morning</a> we walked to Lukla, completing the Everest Three Pass Trek <a href="x-apple-data-detectors://2" dir="ltr" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="calendar-event" x-apple-data-detectors-result="2" style="text-decoration-color: rgba(127, 127, 127, 0.380392);">in 19 days</a>. We have two days before our flight to Kathmandu and have not yet decided what to do with the time.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I brought some of my Dad’s ashes with me with a view to depositing them near Everest. Unfortunately I completely forgot about them (sorry Dad) until a few days ago. Casting about for a place my Dad would appreciate in the venues to be visited in the last few days of our trek, I hit upon the end of the runway at the Lukla airport. My Dad was a private pilot who built his own airplane. What better place than a vantage point over the most dangerous airstrip in the world?</span><div><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><img id="id_2d8f_116d_cf39_bd98" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2QPweJO5cLZIOjxNBmS1EaDKyFPgVOcJDUBpBll-1YNIJa2PmMnjHxRoUrw" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Matthew, Bruce and I went to the upper end of the airstrip just as a plane was taking off. To compensate for the short length of the strip, the pilot revved the engines to a high pitch, creating a prop wash that knocked the hats off spectators. We watched the plane roar off the end of the strip before leaving a bit of Dad to watch the comings and goings at this busy and hazardous airstrip. I think he would have appreciated the choice of venue.</span><div><font face="UICTFontTextStyleBody"><span style="font-size: 17px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span></font> <div><img id="id_a95f_5263_8706_c022" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dCU_f1cfnWMaYpGTmNuSe1MMGpoEICYK7WOonHB5kOzj3iTXTKHsWiIqQ68" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_994a_2a34_7cd3_8646" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/qqAxCcGHN6Z1TcK8Ql_LlfOrFyjHhSAoj3-JnfURSisrSNZzTC7L2b4eVKI" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_d51b_3213_ee_4c02" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/YOoE4ej3jWBxv_KMWsOld7HTGDnCiW74s2stFHDbr_vbk2kCTr74TjXAI2I" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_9cd4_b2ee_31f5_9738" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/ReC3gLmOuIR1P6IvI71sA4Xo84OGCiK15SdQ-0ex6vfd_7y8kCEcfyIoKhQ" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div></div></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-85271904464412472982019-11-20T09:12:00.001-08:002019-11-20T10:54:17.474-08:00Return to Namche <img id="id_4326_5488_c0d7_7826" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eZvb9ch2DvxlqRhvVwWKiRqsjyEMh6vuMnsLHYaxvUrffIVIdW8Vq4Ola6A" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_7b22_6eab_5432_8604" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RjFeJ3DuQrZZyzSMmKuaEqMM1CQLz9XsFcWV56r8xPS9SfpsYms7mB5bbsY" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_fa86_5f9c_a69d_481a" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/zlNibNpdYIi8nR6pbT_h3zykRzOLFZOTG-c-xRWmzH-1YH6xJkesuCIF5hw" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Today’s walk was like some kind of Himalayan fantasy. We passed through juniper and rhododendron forests, strode along trails cut out of ravine walls hundreds of feet above a river, crossed a bridge above a roaring waterfall, and passed through several traditional villages. The light was magnificent and we could hardly make any progress with all of the photo stops.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">About halfway to Namche we started to meet groups of hikers out on day trips from Namche. After more than a week off the main trekking trails we were once again swept up in the tourist hordes. </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I had a conversation with an English group that is here to participate in the Everest Marathon. It will be held <a href="x-apple-data-detectors://1" dir="ltr" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="calendar-event" x-apple-data-detectors-result="1" style="text-decoration-color: rgba(127, 127, 127, 0.380392);">on December 2nd</a>, with the contestants running downhill from Gorak Shep (5200 m) to Namche (3450 m). There are about 40 foreign entrants and 20 from Nepal. I was told that in the 30+ year history of the marathon the Nepali runners have generally won, but this year the English have a ringer so they are hoping for an upset. Although I have run some marathons and was interested in the details of the event, it still seems like an odd thing to be doing in a national park in the Himalayas.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Arriving in Namche around midday, we spent most of the balance of the day eating, both at our hotel and at a bakery. We are all looking a bit drawn and emaciated. It doesn’t improve our appearance that no one has shaved in over two weeks.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Our appearance didn’t phase our hotelier, who welcomed us back and asked if we wanted the same room. He was interested in our experiences and recommended a brand of local beer for our celebratory drink. He is an excellent host and made us feel very much at home.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"> <div><br></div><div><img id="id_a62f_b574_2184_4d48" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1127FI2PirfOG8o-KenebiT8t4aGKseJvb3huTOX8I-Eu2wo5bE73MNpxM" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_423b_4fdb_bba2_4be6" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fE1FGcaPKwBO4Inca-HTvxJ4HlnkWpj2vRbXH3or-RkflmiTxwOuDRX_QDo" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_840d_6eb9_3eee_fb87" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/BMdD-xXkI6OKcYPygUaH6QlmohCMsx9xf5wYb9tP03rhFUFOm4SlYbJ-0Rk" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_b3c7_7db0_f529_2a86" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rLK3Rwgf2_Gl5pguXAVCqNQA23YuY3-KwMYkb3bTgeN1PNdZTJs61xF3t28" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-65985705858903905872019-11-19T21:48:00.001-08:002019-11-20T05:04:19.462-08:00Thame<img id="id_379f_8bec_ba89_66ab" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/bP2NBh1iw3rUZb8lWaiC6d--UCvoqKtOSxWmki5vdZ-bfmIOiNvhiGd-C6M" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_6b5_e679_a4a4_c349" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/1Aqi0n4PqS5VaoF6lSQ59PE2vUEvZswPKEUT6YKxmDWiXON1VGiNWzxRid8" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We had a very easy day today, drifting down from Lumden (4350 m) to Thame (3850 m). It was interesting to observe the change in vegetation as we lost elevation. The tiny, thorny shrubs yielded to juniper and dwarf willow, the juniper grew, and then finally, at the edge of Thame, we entered a small forest of rhododendrons and birch. These were the first trees we have seen in over a week.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">The cultural environment changed as we descended as well. Above about 4300 metres there are no true villages, but only clusters of trekking lodges. We passed through a couple of real towns today, complete with chortens, mani walls and other manifestations of Buddhist faith. We haven’t seen many of these in the past week and a half.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We are staying in the village of Thame this evening. Most of the trekkers just barrel through here in the way to the bright lights of Namche, but we have time to burn so we are able to stay. Our guesthouse is an older one with only six rooms. The dining area is very traditional, with a portion functioning as a Buddhist shrine. We are the only guests. Our host has made us some delicious vegetable fried noodles with cheese, and built a very warm yak dung fire in the airtight stove. We are enjoying our time in Thame very much.</span><div><font face="UICTFontTextStyleBody"><span style="font-size: 17px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span></font> <div><img id="id_ab_fe24_96eb_a068" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/ymELNkwEZw4OlO88GJt5-n80BlHdTOnhMKK1eWSVBZYAegDLKhH4KdVS2oI" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_8d39_efc1_9f5c_90c8" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/aRzGWtHAsU628h-1OsCE5P_hg3SDAwmhHflQ9cKRU8vmUANbfwvFrEB74fM" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_9592_8082_a42b_ed84" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qIehnVJTCR26r9B2r84ainpKJLC7JO-WFqSEaOqup85kNRUeRf8Vt8IPKm4" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_86ed_73d0_19e3_d99c" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/N6mH6aS4-7ZXbh3vgvYekRwUMAnFPqY_TSBZAGMGUluC9LkMCAI30hFphbU" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_8ec6_21c1_424e_62c5" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/5vczmEeZJPHB8iOIAGE3YSddbFm-16iv9_Fl671BWto6vW7slC8goZcPcN0" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-58027803143660781312019-11-19T21:47:00.001-08:002019-11-20T04:57:06.929-08:00Renjo La - the Last Pass<img id="id_aa36_9b20_89f6_91f" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/afYbn2F2pdTr_MNnu_d204_tO9i1RsZS57epPYd-n0VuoS3GePAt9CnWjGc" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_11a9_6705_4811_ea11" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/A6jxRGi43I8bpS44cM572xhuzS9CmN2TutItJHk-DAdrNecqIG9VkDjupfg" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Today we transitted the last of the three passes on our trek. They have been getting easier, but we still spent four hours climbing and three hours descending from the Renjo La. None of the passes have been the rounded walkovers common in the Rockies; there is always a scramble near the top of the invariably knife edged summit.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">It was another gorgeous day, with light winds and pleasant temperatures. We had excellent views of Everest, Lhotse and many other peaks all the way up. Everest and Lhotse were capped with lenticular clouds, which I took to be their way of saying goodbye to us. Only glimpses of them are available after the Renjo La is crossed. I took some time at the pass to contemplate the vista before me. It is the region with the highest real estate in the world and I feel very privileged to have been able to see it.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">On the way down I was reminded of the cost of accessing this beauty. About an hour from the pass we met a woman being supported by a guide and her husband. She had an unfocused stare and a staggering gait. My immediate impression was that she had a cerebral edema and should have been descending rather than climbing. She still had an hour of climbing and three hours of challenging descent ahead of her. I hope that things turned out well for her, but given her situation it is difficult to be optimistic.</span><div><font face="UICTFontTextStyleBody"><span style="font-size: 17px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span></font><div><img id="id_2ff6_dc28_d5fe_bb9c" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/DttdY5hRVQun4kxyFMXR2UcAZih-dhELIiB6QNghtB5lNW9AY_nGgwcJ0VE" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><font face="UICTFontTextStyleBody"><span style="font-size: 17px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span></font> <div><img id="id_4af1_dab3_83b_e5c2" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OMwzdLDcz1bOr6Q4T22CMsf7jUz-uMyjKSn_Tl64y-z1CjkTfSw1BBsWJ6Y" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_833b_7744_8047_a54d" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/KdN1-1D56ZVkggoTCdCkGtAWNvjVYyajiVDabx4umVmryA_afKhVP-JNL0c" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_a74c_74c0_feae_a21d" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/yFbZo65XpFgWAXKqU06e8vCpuPSeHk_LE5wKzIPIxmbwa2zG2J3SsENMQNI" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div></div></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-60767995054802179722019-11-17T08:45:00.001-08:002019-11-17T08:53:26.306-08:00 Gokyo<br><img id="id_8aa6_9797_9de_5360" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/7dfgVQHPUdQKddzUhEvKvZy5-YMN8ZzRcB07FSD_t6S4A3x83j0esZlN7bo" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><br><img id="id_5d34_9a10_da03_7c4e" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WWWGY7qQnmLeukmegviYQYquxHe6JQX5gde-MBxGkHue-coTdeTvPID59go" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We are spending two nights in the village of Gokyo, located at 4800 metres. The destination of a recognized trek in its own right, it is increasingly visited as part of the Three Pass Trek. </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Gokyo is well known for a couple of day trips: to a viewpoint called Gokyo Ri, and to a series of lakes upstream from the town.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We undertook the 560 metre climb up Gokyo Ri <a href="x-apple-data-detectors://0" dir="ltr" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="calendar-event" x-apple-data-detectors-result="0" style="text-decoration-color: rgba(127, 127, 127, 0.380392);">this morning</a>. It is just a hill, but at this altitude it was quite challenging. After two hours of exhausting work we reached the summit and a superb viewpoint. We could see all four of the 8000 metre peaks in this region (Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu.). The latter dominates this valley and spawns the enormous glacier that passes by the town.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Gokyo Ri also provided an excellent view of Renjo La, the pass we will be crossing tomorrow. The pass is exactly the same height as Gokyo Ri, 5360 metres, after which we will be steadily losing altitude for the remainder of our trek.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Enervated from our hike up Gokyo Ri we nevertheless walked up to the next lake after lunch, but it was just a token effort.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">What is notable is that two of us had lunch, something we have only done a few times. We also had heavy breakfasts, so after more than a week at more than 4500 metres we are finally becoming acclimatized to the altitude. It’s almost a shame to be heading down to more pleasant elevations tomorrow (not really).</span><div><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"> <div><img id="id_1c54_b4b8_8725_665c" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vC52EOb9OlCcUEgPdLMhvqAeU54IYx2Dme-7EfwUFqy0Y1pf9UP1QboofE0" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_bb89_61e0_94b3_ed1" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JPbU8hwvianYWWh9pYsgjQa35PDKJIy3vMdnz816gwpGtq4ioxAjBHJARV8" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_191c_68ea_216a_e5d0" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/j9UhXOugKFp6_w-VMtyXSlVdhOKT2Ilrr9Yw6S5lMhoTgn0iWE2H3L0AaKM" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-10795984227536518062019-11-15T22:01:00.001-08:002019-11-16T06:04:00.741-08:00Cho La - Pass 2 of 3<img id="id_7b9c_ca65_4ba6_617" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/tmc11kcVdzTPHOaC1bqxOpRTMog4_xyY_yd0998v7N8Y-wQ3AJ5NqVqClOw" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_c2f2_d069_7e50_66cb" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/RfHQd4u-uKRdQxgCcCvdwcwNFWMo7g1CNGz0TQo2VT7vPRRlEWmztH5Z8Y4" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Yesterday we walked down a bit from Gorak Shep (Everest Base Camp) before turning off the main trail towards Cho La. The number of trekkers per day immediately dropped from about 300 to about 50.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">The trail to Dzongla, at the base of the Cho La, was gorgeous, with impressive peaks and a large, emerald green glacial lake.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Dzongla itself was charming, with excellent views and perhaps eight relaxed lodges. The guesthouse where we stayed was our best so far on the trek. We were able to have a hot shower and do some laundry, both way overdue. The shower cost about CAD12, but the gas to heat the water would have spent many days on a yak’s back before placed at our service.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Today we crossed the Cho La, the second of the three high passes we will traverse on this trip. It was not as difficult as the Kongma La, but after 7 hours of walking we were quite tired. There were several steep sections, some provided with fixed cables. We were also on a glacier for about half a kilometre, finally justifying our purchase of glacier glasses and YakTrax, MicroSpikes or instep crampons.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We are still running out of energy on the long, challenging days, particularly Bruce and I. I have a theory that we are just not eating enough, due to the altitude. In the future we are going to stop midday for 30 minutes and force down a Cliff bar or other snack. Other than at dinner time food remains almost repellent to us. We generally force ourselves to eat something for breakfast and eat nothing until dinner. No doubt we are losing lots of weight, a North American dream, but at the cost of lacking the energy to complete our walks in a comfortable manner.</span><div><font face="UICTFontTextStyleBody"><span style="font-size: 17px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span></font> <div><img id="id_3577_a14e_37ec_9dc" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/bDuomOWiC_cuYPpiMVvwkReruQFTfrj2fSHoDJCMwJtRvjxFg2K8aNnVhVU" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-65516271150932953572019-11-13T06:51:00.001-08:002019-11-13T06:53:41.651-08:00 Hygiene<img id="id_db0f_9c68_870c_2e2f" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/J0sY05rd20MA2-ybc25o95cFf8FE9I3PMXl7plhkPMk1Jxit0bkualQBXAo" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">It is surprising that I have not noticed the smell of anyone in the crowded dining rooms at the trekking lodges, because personal hygiene is challenging while trekking. This has been brought home to us at Gorak Shep, where there is so little water that none of the lodges offer showers.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Most of the lodges at lower elevations do have showers heated by gas from cylinders, usually for about $6, similar to the cost of a room. For that fee you generally receive a trickle of water that fluctuates wildly in temperature as you adjust the flame or the flow rate.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Other forms of personal hygiene present their own hurdles. For instance, a basin with a mirror is a rare sight. It also takes some commitment to shave in icy water when the air temperature is near freezing. As a consequence, many of the tourists are growing beards.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">It is risky to consume the tap water in any of the trekking lodges, so it is always necessary to treat it or purchase bottled water for tooth brushing or drinking. We have consistently treated our own water, but there is so little water available in Gorak Shep that we have been compelled to purchase it.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Washing laundry is also difficult to do, because of the cool temperatures and limited access to basins and drying lines. We often climb into our cold sleeping bags wearing the clothes we have been walking in.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">It is now three days since we have been able to shower, six days since we did laundry, and a week since we shaved. As a result we and our clothes are becoming increasingly dirty, to the point that we are feeling a bit uncomfortable. We are hoping for at least a shower <a href="x-apple-data-detectors://1" dir="ltr" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="calendar-event" x-apple-data-detectors-result="1" style="text-decoration-color: rgba(127, 127, 127, 0.380392);">at tomorrow night</a>’s accommodation.</span> <div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div><div><img id="id_fa29_9a1b_b168_13b8" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/kEHfPR4hz6gXbiTWbXUZVJazl4pDxAg_xNYxRagveYu8PqrQk2vBK4uqYVk" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_ebe6_484f_e402_7132" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PMOMnZzCxbjCrkGjk7xjDAGhenDDq0Jqfd3oc7y8RMddJHF4kaeQtzzJOCg" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2437921527161137196.post-70841349255308217382019-11-12T06:35:00.001-08:002019-11-12T06:37:57.188-08:00 Gorak Shep<img id="id_bc71_dfa0_37c5_2c93" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/WSV1zCGIkYmwBbiBNFThHnKAhkuqCcot_OBRGWb5q2wcWFOwFpW8HqMWtWk" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Today we walked from Lobuche to Gorak Shep. Located at 5200 metres, this is the last outpost of trekking lodges on the Everest Base Camp trek. From here it is possible to walk to the Everest Base Camp, which we will do tomorrow. The other day hike is to Kala Pattar, which provides a good view of Everest.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We arrived in Gorak Shep before noon, and the weather was crystal clear, so we chose to visit Kala Pattar <a href="x-apple-data-detectors://2" dir="ltr" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="calendar-event" x-apple-data-detectors-result="2" style="text-decoration-color: rgba(127, 127, 127, 0.380392);">this afternoon</a>. It was a steady two hour climb to the 5550 metre summit of Kala Pattar. The footing was mostly good, but it is simply difficult to climb in this thin air. Partway to the summit I started to think of the slow climb as an exercise in mindfulness. I focused on my breathing and the slow movement of my feet, allowing them to kiss the earth, in the words of Thich Naht Han. Hypoxic as I was, I felt that the earth carried me towards the summit. I found myself smiling and enjoying the moment, no longer struggling to reach the summit. The spell was only broken when I had to climb through a boulder field near the top.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">It was quite pleasant at the summit of Kala Pattar, with stunning views of Everest, the Khumbu glacier, and Nuptse, which steals the show as the most beautiful peak in the area.</span><div><font face="UICTFontTextStyleBody"><span style="font-size: 17px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span></font> <div><img id="id_f16d_55a8_1dd0_f43" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/f2Zvl8sL1FEQWQz_CbRmbH82oB-u0DUOevIsJsjSurDeWuR5maDSVOCRqcg" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><img id="id_e068_96cc_ab55_aff3" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/Zm2fX3zvxupb0ZLxsH3iMyMqRdjHVSu0RslN5OOkFNl_96olKbCGTcKfHR0" alt="" title="" tooltip="" style="width: 392px; height: auto;"><br><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br></span></div></div>Ruth McDonald/Gordon Websterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03342472130748119202noreply@blogger.com0