Troia: A Church for Everyone

Ruth: “If God exists; there is only one,” said a local fellow who volunteered to show us all the heretical sculptures in the Troia Cathedral.

When someone just begins to act as an unsolicited guide I am generally wary, but in this case we were delighted by our tour of this exceptional Church. The jewels of this beautiful 11th century Cathedral go well beyond simple Christian heresy. This is a church for all: not just Christians, but for Jews and Moslems. Imagine such a wonderful and inclusive concept and then ponder on the fact that this came to be in the Middle Ages. Christians, Jews and Muslims all contributed to the cost of the construction of this church and their support is reflected in the carvings that adorn it. Stars of David sit beside the symbols of the Koran and Jesus. There are even Sufi carvings included in the mix. What is even more baffling is that somehow the more recent Catholics of Troia did not seek to “cleanse” their cathedral of all it's heretical iconography. As well, they have not hit this Romanesque jewel with baroque renovations.

Santa Maria Capua Vetere to Benevento: Searching for Spartacus

This morning we visited the Amphitheatre in Santa Maria Capua Vetere.  Not only is this an impressive ruin, but it is also where Spartacus trained and launched his rebellion.

 We have followed the Appian way from Rome to Capua. After their defeat in 71 B.C., 6000 of the rebel slaves were crucified, lining the entire distance along the Appian way between Rome and Capua.

When I asked the lady at the ticket booth where to find Signore Spartucus she smiled and gestured towards the amphitheatre, so I began my search there.

Later catching a glimpse of him in the hypogeum (the area under the floor) I was able to capture a fleeting picture.  On seeing the image, Gordon's only comment was “kind of scrawny looking, no wonder he was defeated”

Gaeta to Santa Maria Capua Vetere: The Numbers so Far

2000 kms cycled from Innsbruck 

42 days since we left Innsbruck - 37 days biking 

3 mountain passes: Arlberg, Grand Saint Bernard, Cisa 

Most expensive accommodation: 95€ in Pavia

Least expensive accommodation: by donation (20€ for both of us) in a number of places

Average daily expenditure for both of us: about 100€

Top 10 gelato flavours: melon, pistachio, grapefruit, coffee, chocolate, liquorice, hazelnut, lemon, strawberry, tiramisu

Mars bars consumed: 24

Tears: 0

Bed bugs: 0

Flat tires: 0 

Change in clothing size: -1

Numer of days with rain: 4

Number of Pilgrims encountered on the route to Rome: 25

Number after Rome: 0

Road kill spotted: 1 opossum, 5 rabbits, 1 owl, way too many cats (stay off the road Russell), 2 porcupines, 20 hedgehogs, 1 snake, hundreds of unidentifiable rat tailed creatures

Price of a coffee macchiato in the North: 1€, in Rome: 2€, in the South: 0.80€ and falling

Price of a half litre of red wine in a Tetra pack: 1.40€

Usual Price of a Margarita Pizza: 5€

Number  of times we wished for something other than Italian food for lunch or dinner: 0

Number of countries visited: 4

Number of incidents of marital discord since we started carrying Mars bars: 0

Each days we are struck by the treasures in Italy. These were just from today.

Terracina to Gaeta: time on the coast

 We have been enjoying the small cities on the sea as we cycle down the coast south of Rome.  Gaeta is so appealing that we have stayed an extra night.  The decision was easy to make because we are also staying in a particularly outstanding B&B.  We may be the last cyclists accepted here however, as the owners lost money when we fell upon the excellent breakfast.

We are staying high up in the old portion of the city, a maze of stairs and passage ways, many covered.  Close by is the bell tower of the cathedral, which has been beautifully restored.  It dates to the 10th century and is constructed in a style described as Arab-Norman.  The Moorish influence is quite clear.

Incongruous with this medieval setting, we awoke to the sound of the Star-Spangled Banner.  This is because Gaeta is the base for NATO (read U. S.) naval forces in the Mediterranean.  The music emanated from the American flagship Mount Whitney moored in the harbour.  Our host assures us that we will have the opportunity to hear the anthem again tomorrow morning at the same time.

Still Pilgrims: Rome to Velletri on the Appian Way

We are pilgrims again! But first may I take a moment to apologize to all cyclists for my suggestion that to be a mere biker is somehow less worthy.  I have always held in high regard all people who move through the world on two self propelled wheels.  I also think smears of bike grease on the back of the calves when dining out are particularly sexy. 

For some crazy reason however, Gord and I just love being pilgrims. For us there is nothing better than finding an ancient route to follow. 

Yesterday we were casting about for a route for the next leg of our travels.  We dropped into a bookstore and found an Italian guide book for the Via Francigena Nel Sud. This is a 700 km continuation of the Via Francigena used by pilgrims to Jerusalem.  It largely follows the Appian Way from Rome to Brindisi.  We bought the book and and this morning headed out of Rome on the Appian Way, allegedly the first paved long distance road in the Western World. This road is just lined with Roman ruins and bits of history everywhere.  Some of the original flagstone paving remains.  It is very picturesque, but 2300 years of use have left their mark and the surface is essentially unrideable.  We contented ourselves with taking pictures and riding on a dirt track beside the Appian Way.

Our first pilgrim stop was at the Catacombs of Saint Callisto. Here we were treated to a fantastic tour of the first Christian cemetery, with tombs and frescoes dating back to the the early third century. I studied these early examples of Christian art in university so it was thrilling to see them first hand. Included in the tour was the earliest depiction of the cross as a Christian symbol. 

We get to be pilgrims now for another two weeks!

Saint Peter's Square: Lunch with the Pope.

Ruth:

Today we went to St. Peter's Square,  the final destination of the Via Francigena and the end of our 2800 km pilgrimage to 

to Rome. It's Wednesday, which means we were not alone. We joined at least 10,000 others keen on catching a glimpse of the Pope.

Wednesday is when he holds his weekly public audience. The adoring crowds treated him like a rock star. You could tell when the Pope was in our vicinity in the square because hundreds of cameras and iPads shot up into the air.

We were pleased to get our Testimoniums (the certificate granted for completing the pilgrimage). Contrary to what we had heard, they were easily obtained just outside St. Peter's square at the Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi, Piazza Pio XII no. 9. We will save our visit to St. Peter's and the Vatican museums for another day when the crowds are a bit lighter.

I will miss the identity of being a pilgrim and the special privileges  and unique community that comes with it. I remember feeling the same way when I finished my masters degree. It was one thing to be a grad student who worked part time, and quite another to be an over-educated, underemployed member of the plebs. I guess I am just a cyclist now. Still, a very, very fortunate one who has been permanently changed by the experiences of following an ancient pilgrimage route.


 

Cycling Into Rome from Sutri: Cyclists Fear Not the Road to Rome!

Cyclists have no fear there is a calm and beautiful way into Rome on Bicycle! 

Gord and made it from Innsbruck to Rome in just over 1800 kms!

If you are a cyclist on the Via Francigena, or just cycling into Rome from the North or East,  it is worth a few more kilometres and hills to go in on the Euro Velo 5.  Gord and I were both apprehensive about cycling into Rome, but we had a wonderful ride in that surprised us both. Here is my summary of our route in case someone else is looking for a calm way in. 

We started this morning in Fontevivola near Sutri. We headed NE on the SP82 and then quickly turned down the SP1 which merges into the Via Cassia or SR2. We stayed on the Via Casia just until Monterosi and took the exit for Campagnano.  The road climbs up to a ridge but it is worth the rewards of the long coast into the outskirts of Rome.  From Campagnano head for Sacrofano where you will join the Euro Velo 5. The climbing is over just after Sacrofano on the road to Prima Porta where the Euro Velo route takes you safely around the freeway and down to the river. The rest of the route simply follows the river into the heart of Rome.

Wonderful ride!

Enjoying the Trevi Fountain with 700 plus others.